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Crumbtrail TV Forums: TV Equipment: TV Repair Forum:
Need advice: High voltage splitter replacement

 

 


DaRedFox
New User

Feb 1, 2005, 3:42 AM

Post #1 of 11 (2069 views)
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Need advice: High voltage splitter replacement Can't Post

Just bought an RCA P46732BA rear projection from a tv repair guy, worked fine when I checked it out at his shop. Brought it home, was able to watch a full length movie and then a couple of hours later while watching heard a high pitched noise, the picture flickered and poof out she went. #$%^&* thought I'd been had, thankfully he gave me a 30-day parts warranty. He came over to the house did some diagnostics and came to the conclussion that it was the High Voltage Splitter. He's ordering me a brand new one (I heard it's a good idea to buy OEM instead of generic parts), he gave me the choice of either installing it myself or have him do it for $50.

I'm a computer technician so I've worked with electronics before, he walked me through on how to install the new splitter. From how he explained it to me it seems quite easy enough however he did say that if I start it I'm on my own.

Here' my question, is there anything that I need to know or keep in mind if I replace the splitter myself or should I spend the $50. and have him do it himself. Not sure if he's just trying to recoup some of the money he spent on the new splitter.

Thanx in advance.



StarBaseONE2
New User

Feb 1, 2005, 11:24 AM

Post #2 of 11 (2063 views)
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Re: [DaRedFox] Need advice: High voltage splitter replacement [In reply to] Can't Post

Hi everyone! Looks like a great site, and I'm happy to have become a member! In responce to DaRedFox's request for advice I would say it seems to this tech that a high number of high voltage component's breakdown in these 3 gun projection screens is lack of a good quality high voltage crt grounds... Therefore my opinion is "The most pertinent detail of your situation lies in the grounding from your lopt/tripler right through the chassis the guns themselves sit in especially the clip on ground jokes on the crt boards (just follow along the whole path of spade connected grounds in this circuit. Because they ALL NEED A GOOD SOLDERING!!!"
I personally dislike (but I'm sure opinions will vary) changing out a tripler without also changing out the lopt... seems too much like changing a rotory button on your first car without changing the distributor cap!
Oh and I think that you heard correctly about the OEM parts being more reliable in high voltage repairs if they are available.
Good luck, Sir. It sounds to me like you're qualified plenty for this little project!
StarBaseONE2


shadetree
Veteran

Feb 1, 2005, 6:17 PM

Post #3 of 11 (2056 views)
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Re: [DaRedFox] Need advice: High voltage splitter replacement [In reply to] Can't Post

just put the wires in the same places and make sure they are pushed in good and you'll be fine


mikemaiertv
Enthusiast


Feb 1, 2005, 9:33 PM

Post #4 of 11 (2055 views)
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Re: [shadetree] Need advice: High voltage splitter replacement [In reply to] Can't Post

Wrote this some time ago..... still aplys
This will be my general “caned answer” for the CTC 169 or in these cases the PTK169 chassis, first of all the “light box” can be removed from the set making it much easer to work on, first remove the back and on top of the box there is a plug where the front panel attaches to, remove that plug unwrapping it from all the holders on top there may also be a place where the speakers plug in up there but in most cases they snake down and plug in to a board right in the audio output board in the back. Then remove all the screws on the bottom back that hold the chassis in, slowly pull the chassis out making sure the wires don’t snag up and break something.
Once the box is out the set gets real easy to work on, you can use the remote control to turn the set on because the IR sender is located right in front of the green CRT.
Then as general rule we change three capacitors in the power supply no matter way the set failed. These caps tend to dry out driving the B+ voltage high, they are located in front of the plug on the right side of the main board and two are located just left of Ic U4401 cap C4104 or as shown on the board as C104 this will be a 15uf at 50 volts change it to a 22uf , 50 volts and then C102 a 2.2 uf at 100 volts finally the big one to the right of the first two C108 a 39uf at 100 we change this to a 100uf ,100volts. In Every 169 we worked on The B+ voltage is always been high because of these caps wearing out, just by changing these three B+ usually returns to normal.
Then the next most common fail is the high voltage splitter this is located by opening the front of the set where the convergence board is or what was right behind the speaker grill if the chassis is in the set. The splitter is located either on the right side ( From the front ) or in-between the CRT’s it has Four large red wires and one Black wire and may or may not have a small circuit board mounted on it. To test if this is bad find the one red wire that leads back to the fly back (High voltage transformer) and remove it. First of all if this is burned the splitter is bad, next isolate it by either stuffing a paper towel tube over it or getting it at least a good couple of inches away from anything else is the chassis. Then the fun part, rember how you could here the set turn on then off, with this wire removed the set should run, use the remote and start the set staying AWAY from this lead, there will be no light coming from the CRT’s but you should be able to here the set running and not shut down, there are no relays or things that make a click when this set runs and since there are no speaker hooked up either there will be no audio. But the difference between running and not running are fairly obvious. If the set runs then the splitter is bad
Now its part number is 205064 and should cost you about $55.00. A little note on these splitters, several companies have jumped on the band wagon building splitters Always go for the original factory part for this, other even though they have the same number and cost as low as 19.95 will cause you nothing but grief. This part is too critical to go cheap on, because if you do you will be doing this again within a year Guaranteed.
Now if you splitter has the little circuit board attached transfer it to the new splitter and solder the wires, even though the old one only had them wire wrapped solder is a better connection. You may have a sticker stuck to the chassis showing you where all the wires and the length you need to cut the wires to for the splitter. And when you removed the old wire there may have been little rubber band thingys on the end, we have always tossed these because they could bind up inside the tube and messing up the connection. On these tubes you notice there are two stopping point for the plastic holders, what you can do here is put the holder in place to the first stop, insert the wire, making sure every thing enters the splitter perfectly strait, when you feel some resistance stop and push both the wire and the holder to the second stop. You should then see that if you did not have to cut off a burnt end, that the little blue line or wire tie that was on the leads is just above the plastic holder. If all goes well now you can start the set up as before and this time the CRT’s will light
Mike Owens Owner Competition TV Spokane WA.


shadetree
Veteran

Feb 2, 2005, 12:15 AM

Post #5 of 11 (2052 views)
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Re: [mikemaiertv] Need advice: High voltage splitter replacement [In reply to] Can't Post

too much information for a amateur but sounds great


DaRedFox
New User

Feb 2, 2005, 3:24 AM

Post #6 of 11 (2045 views)
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Re: [shadetree] Need advice: High voltage splitter replacement [In reply to] Can't Post

Thanx for all the advice gents, I'm almost there, seems fairly easy enough. I did stumble on the part where I'm in the process of inserting the main leads however I can't seem to get it in all the way to the marked point on the wire. I've got the right length but am short about a 1/4", it just won't go and when I give it a little muscle it still won't go and the tip of the wire keeps bending out of shape.

What am I doing wrong?


shadetree
Veteran

Feb 2, 2005, 3:38 AM

Post #7 of 11 (2043 views)
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Re: [DaRedFox] Need advice: High voltage splitter replacement [In reply to] Can't Post

push in till it seats properly if you don't get in just right it will ark a little then push in a little more if its a good splitter it will seat easily


DaRedFox
New User

Feb 2, 2005, 3:51 AM

Post #8 of 11 (2042 views)
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Re: [shadetree] Need advice: High voltage splitter replacement [In reply to] Can't Post

The tubes where the leads go into is about 2 3/4" long with a tiny hole in the bottom where the tip of the wire seats into but it seems like the hole is just big enough for a perfect fit. No tolerance at all, I'm slowly inserting the lead making sure it's straight trying to feel for where the hole is and just when I think its seated that 1/4" just won't go and the wire keeps bending. Grrrrrrr, trying to keep my cool.


DaRedFox
New User

Feb 2, 2005, 4:56 AM

Post #9 of 11 (2038 views)
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Re: [DaRedFox] Need advice: High voltage splitter replacement [In reply to] Can't Post

The exposed wire is about 3/8" however I took a straightened paper clip and inserted it into the hole on the old splitter and it only goes in about an 8th of an inch. Is the rest of the wire supposed to bend?


shadetree
Veteran

Feb 2, 2005, 6:28 PM

Post #10 of 11 (2034 views)
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Re: [DaRedFox] Need advice: High voltage splitter replacement [In reply to] Can't Post

try turning the wire clockwise when you get it all the way in may seat better


DaRedFox
New User

Feb 3, 2005, 12:44 AM

Post #11 of 11 (2031 views)
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Re: [shadetree] Need advice: High voltage splitter replacement [In reply to] Can't Post

So I just want to be perfectly clear that the exposed wire need not be inserted all the way into the hole at the bottom as long as there is some contact. Correct?

 
 
 


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