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Crumbtrail TV Forums: TV Equipment: TV Repair Forum:
Phillips 55PP9352 55...no green

 

 


drmax
New User

Jan 27, 2009, 1:12 PM

Post #1 of 25 (4400 views)
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Phillips 55PP9352 55...no green Can't Post

(note...SSM has been professionally repaired/tested. no problems on this board)
After installing SSM from repair, (new IC's and 4 bad 6.5 Ohm resistors) I noticed there was a slight convergence mis alignement. When I go into the blue alignment (big cross), that's all there is...no other color; nothing to converge to. Not sure what other color the blue is suppose to align with (grn?) The red/yellow was able to adjust. What I did do, was select the factory reset, and convergence good now, but hardly any green. Primarily blue and pink/redish with some yellow. So whatever color is converging with the blue, appears to be inoperative and am assuming green. I've read where the coolant may have congealed/contam. and needs replaced.
I am posting this, as to direction. Not trying to beat a dead horse with the coolant thing, for I have read here and my eyes are bleeding, but did not see anything specific to my model. The TV is 6 yrs old and never any cleaning/maintenance performed on it from original owner. I am planning on doing the fluid change of blue and green, but wanted this to be viewed by the experienced prior to pressing on.
Thx for any advice.



Ron.M
Veteran


Feb 18, 2009, 9:52 PM

Post #2 of 25 (4350 views)
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Re: [drmax] Phillips 55PP9352 55...no green [In reply to] Can't Post

drmax: I hope I'm not too late to reply to your post...I just found this forum recently...I'm new here...1st,..I've been in the TV bussiness over 45 years , so listen carefully...
You did not give a clue as to your experience , So I'LL assume you have some...
A 6 year old Philips does not neccessarily mean that the coolant needs changing...
BEFORE you change the coolant:(I hope you haven't already!!)
Remove the front screen..Then turn it on..Put it on an active channel...Check the tops of the lenses for any accumulated dust / dirt...If there is a buildup of dust , turn set OFF & UNPLUG...Use a SOFT towel or rag & Windex (Do NOT use ANY abrasive cleaner as they WILL scratch the lenses & ruin the pix clarity) ..Do NOT spray on the lenses, spray the towel / rag...When the lenses are clean , turn set back on & CAREFULLY look down into each lens...WARNING:DO THIS WITH CARE as it WILL BE A BRIGHT light..Check for clarity & brightness of each color...If it's cloudy , then the coolant needs to be changed...If they are clear , coolant IS OK...Check the green to see if the briteness level matches the others..If it is darker , then a simple adjustment is all you need...

I will tell you this about changing coolants:
Do NOT expect the convergence to be OK when done...It WILL be needed to be re-adjusted (possibly in the "Factory Menu")...The new coolant has a different optical effect than the original..
Also: I have seen sets where only one color needed a coolant change..And changed just that one with excellent results..

You'll have to remove the complete CRT assembly to change the coolant..Do NOT remove the yokes etc..Unplug all assemblies attached to CRT...CAREFULLY discharge the High Voltage (RED) lead on the side of the CRT...There's a lot of work & care involved...If you need further help , just post here...& I'LL reply as soon as I can....Smile....
Veteran & Retired TV technician

(This post was edited by Ron.M on Feb 18, 2009, 9:54 PM)


drmax
New User

Feb 19, 2009, 1:15 AM

Post #3 of 25 (4343 views)
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Re: [Ron.M] Phillips 55PP9352 55...no green [In reply to] Can't Post

Ron, already changed the blue and green crt fluid. the fluid looked like dark lemonade. i have prepared, fully, for this job. i now have to reinstall the green crt and will used the red for convergence. thx for the reply. i have the service manual so should be able to get through this. oh, and there are no leaks. thx, dm


Ron.M
Veteran


Feb 19, 2009, 2:55 AM

Post #4 of 25 (4341 views)
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Re: [drmax] Phillips 55PP9352 55...no green [In reply to] Can't Post

drmax: Good luck & you're welcome....Wink
Veteran & Retired TV technician


drmax
New User

Feb 22, 2009, 4:10 PM

Post #5 of 25 (4331 views)
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Ron, what is this? [In reply to] Can't Post

45 yrs? You've most likely seen alot. I changed the fluid successfully, but i have a "tilt" on my blue crosses. I'll upload a pic and tell me what you think is causing this.
Thank you




Ron.M
Veteran


Feb 22, 2009, 8:02 PM

Post #6 of 25 (4323 views)
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Re: [Ron.M] Phillips 55PP9352 55...no green [In reply to] Can't Post

drmax:...Frown...OK ...Here we go...First I NEED to know EXACTLY how you changed the coolant...As close to step by step as you can inform me...Did you remove or disturb ANY of the items on the CRT's , ie , yokes , collars , etc...??? Did you remove the CRT's COMPLETELY from the lens assembly ?? Did you clean thoroughly the face of the CRT's with Windex or the equivilent & a SOFT rag ?? AND did you do the same to the inside of each lens where the coolant contacts ??..Did you do ANY convergence adjustments AFTER you changed the coolant ??<==ALL of this IS important for me to find out...

There are a few ways to correct this...It's obviously a convergence problem....There is an easy way & of course , the hard way...From the pix you uploaded (THANKS a LOT) , to me it looks like BOTH the red & blue are tilted upward on the right side....The green also looks like it's also tilted slightly downward on the right side...The red & blue look like they're converged , just slanted...This could be an easy fix...Do NOT get your hopes up just yet...

IF you can , here's what I would like you to do for us...
Look in your service manual for a photo OR drawing of the CRT neck assembly...The pix I want to see will show the yoke + assemblies, a side view...It should be in there...IF you could take a close-up of it & upload it , it WILL save a lot of explanation on my part & eliminate any possible confusion...Unsure
Also, if possible , an exploded view of the CRT assembly...<== Not neccessary , but would be helpful...


Quote
45 yrs? You've most likely seen alot.


You got that right...I have !!

I'll be waiting for your reply...Best regards...Cool

PS: I will need detailed info as to how you upload pix on this site (yours for example) as I intend to modify yours...
I do not see an upload feature here..
Veteran & Retired TV technician


drmax
New User

Feb 22, 2009, 11:42 PM

Post #7 of 25 (4315 views)
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Re: [Ron.M] Phillips 55PP9352 55...no green [In reply to] Can't Post

ron, I'll put up some more pics, as I have them over at avs forum. The "only" thing I may have touched, or inadvertantly misaligned, were the focus rings around the next of the blue crt. (i squeezed these ring a little by accident) Other than that, I only split apart the fisheye lens from the crt and used denatured alcohol with a cotton ball to clean. This is it. Nothing else bumped, touched, etc. I was extremely careful. I did not take apart any other lens. I will take close-ups of my installed crts tomorrow. For now, you'll see my fluid change job as well as the red converge pics. The red looks fine, as I did change the fluid in this crt as well.












(This post was edited by drmax on Feb 22, 2009, 11:52 PM)


Ron.M
Veteran


Feb 23, 2009, 7:31 PM

Post #8 of 25 (4307 views)
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Re: [drmax] Phillips 55PP9352 55...no green [In reply to] Can't Post

drmax: Those ARE some GREAT pix...You MUST tell me HOW you do that...
In reply:==>

Quote
The "only" thing I may have touched, or inadvertantly misaligned, were the focus rings around the neck of the blue crt..


I'm not convinced you misaligned "focus rings"...I believe those are "Centering Rings"..We'll get into that later on...
In the pix with the "cross" , the green & red look converged...However in your previous post with the photos of the "little x's" , ALL three colors looked slanted from left to right...That needs to be corrected...
I don't think that the other pix you have at the "avs" forum will be of any help...I think it would be a good idea if you let me know what they show before you post them...The close-ups of the installed CRT's are not needed as I know what that looks like...Seen that a 1000 times...What I would really like are those pix / drawings from the service manual that I asked for...

Do not do ANY convergence adjustments from the service manual..YET !!!

I'LL be online most of today , so if you post , I'LL answer ASAP...

Later....Cool
Veteran & Retired TV technician

(This post was edited by Ron.M on Feb 24, 2009, 2:07 AM)


drmax
New User

Feb 24, 2009, 4:16 PM

Post #9 of 25 (4293 views)
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Re: [Ron.M] Phillips 55PP9352 55...no green [In reply to] Can't Post

Ron, here is the url with the downloadable phillips guide I worked off of. I really do not have a way to copy/scan pics out of this to upload. The last 90% of this manual is only parts. What you may be after is in the 1st 10% of guide and is easily found.
If this url is not allowed here, any mod, please remove. I had gone into the service menu, to just have a look around, that's all.

http://www.techlore.com/download/22580/DPTV305.pdf/


Ron.M
Veteran


Feb 24, 2009, 9:48 PM

Post #10 of 25 (4286 views)
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Re: [drmax] Phillips 55PP9352 55...no green [In reply to] Can't Post

drmax: OK , Here we go...1st: Thanks for the URL...I'm on dialup with an older computer so it took about a half hour to 45 mins to download it...We ARE going to skip ALL factory settings....I'm not convinced we have to go there just yet....

Here's where we start , in steps....
1st: I want you to attach a string to the upper left corner of the screen to the lower right corner...Then attach a string to the upper right corner to the lower left corner...This is a giant "X" that will give you the center of the screen...We're going to start with the green first...Cover the blue & red lenses...On the neck of the green CRT you will see a "Yoke" (<== if you need help ID'ing this let me know)..Loosen the clamp ( it'll be a phillips or 1/4 inch nutdriver you'll need) just enough so you can move it firmly & not too loose that it slides down the neck...Turn the set "on" & bring up the "Cross" you had in post #5...You will need a GOOD mirror or a friend to help you do this next step..Turn the yoke as needed to make the horizontal part of the "cross" LEVEL from left to right...It IS CRUCIAL that it is perfectly level as the red & blue align to the green...Do NOT worry about centering when you do this step...Turn the set off & tighten the yoke clamp making sure that it's ALL the way up on the CRT...Be carefull not to over tighten as the neck is the weakest part of the CRT...
Now for centering:...You refered to "Focus Rings" in post #7..Those are actually "Centering Rings" ....After the yoke is clamped securely , gently turn one or both rings until the center of the "cross" sits in the center of the "X" of the strings...Do NOT force the rings..If they do not move , let me know & I'll tell you how to get around that...Bring up the display that has all those little "crosses"...You should now have a level green pattern from left to right & a clean vertical pattern from top to bottom...

Repeat the above for both the red & blue..Cover up the green lens & remove the cover from red or blue , only one color on screen at a time..In sequence & EXACTLY as above...This may sound stupid , but remember to turn OFF the set each time when loosening OR tightening the yoke clamps...I've been there & you CAN get zapped...

Now recheck your overall convergence...If needed go to the "Customer convergence menu" ONLY & touch up the convergence adjustments...
Do NOT go to "Factory Menu" to do those adjustments...

If the above seems like I'm talking down to you , I apologise...I do not know your technicial background...

Post back here & let me know the results...Cool
Veteran & Retired TV technician

(This post was edited by Ron.M on Feb 24, 2009, 10:02 PM)


drmax
New User

Feb 25, 2009, 12:44 AM

Post #11 of 25 (4279 views)
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Re: [Ron.M] Phillips 55PP9352 55...no green [In reply to] Can't Post

Ron, can't talk down to me....hehehe. Even if I knew alot about it, I have thick skin and we all can mostly learn something new. So thanks for you wording as I know little about this. 1stly, I will not be able to undertake this until this next sunday as I work up until then, 10 yr days and don't need to be attempting this half asleep.
Now, I recognize the "hose clamp" looking thing (i think this is what you are referring to as loosening, however, I do need a quick briefing on the yoke.
2ndly, I am afraid of adjusting anything with my fingers this close to the crt with power on. How do I avoid being shocked, other than the obvious, like something metal? (as far as adjusting yoke)
Also, as the X will look just like that, an "X", how will I know my "cross" will be sitting perfectly in the X, as it will not really be following the lines?
Thank you Ron


Ron.M
Veteran


Feb 25, 2009, 3:04 AM

Post #12 of 25 (4276 views)
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Re: [drmax] Phillips 55PP9352 55...no green [In reply to] Can't Post

drmax: 1st:...Sunday or later is fine with me ...I check my emails daily , & I especially watch for your notifications...Your smart to be alert when doing this type of work...

There is only one "Hose type clamp" on the yokes...The yoke is the uppermost thing attached around the neck of the CRT...In the 3rd photo down in post #7 , there is a grey plastic cover surrounding it...It probably is the same thing that you said when you disturbed the "Focus Rings"...On the back of the yoke there are 2 or 4 tabs sticking out...Usually 2 are on the top or side & the other 2 are opposite from them...Those are your "Centering Tabs"...What you mistakenly called "Focus Rings"...

Quote
2ndly, I am afraid of adjusting anything with my fingers this close to the crt with power on. How do I avoid being shocked, other than the obvious, like something metal? (as far as adjusting yoke)


If you look at the 3rd or 4th photo in post #7 , there's a heavy / thick red wire coming from just above the yoke that goes into the center glass area of the CRT...That wire carries 30 KV (that's 30 THOUSAND volts) when the set is on & can hold a charge when the set is OFF...Keep your hands (& obviously ANY metal) away from that wire & the area where it connects to the CRT..All it takes is a pinhole in that wire & you can easily get zapped...I suggest you practice moving the yoke lightly loosened with the set off until you feel comfortable doing it with the set on...You don't need to be reaching up that far anyway...You should only be handling the lower part of the yoke where it's a LOT safer...

After looking in the manual , you will have easy access to the yokes from the front of the set... BE CAREFULL when you reach in there to stay away from the modules located at the bottom of the CRT's...They are NOT very strongly built , they have some high voltage on them (Albeit , not anywhere near 30KV ) , & if you bump them hard you COULD break the neck of the CRT...VERY fragile area....


Quote
Also, as the X will look just like that, an "X", how will I know my "cross" will be sitting perfectly in the X, as it will not really be following the lines?

I'm not sure what you mean here..The "X" is where the two strings (you used thin strings , I hope) meet in the center of the screen..The "cross" will NOT look perfect sitting in the "X"...It may be slanted...I need a better explanation from you so I can give you a straight answer...What step are you refering to ??

Please post back soon so we can clarify this part before Sunday...

One more thing: When you loosen the yokes , 1st , I want you to over loosen the clamp..Then try to turn it...It may be stuck in position after 6 yrs...OR NOT !!...If it is , GENTLY BUT FIRMLY try to turn it..Once it loosened up partialy tighten the screw to the point that it will stay where you leave it...Make sure that the yoke is all the way UP on the CRT neck..When you turn the set on , the pix for that color WILL be slanted...DON"T panic..Follow the info in my previous post & it'll be OK...


Best Regards...Cool

PS: Where is this website located?? It's Feb , 24th where I'm at...So does that mean I'm sending a post into the future ??..Unsure
Veteran & Retired TV technician

(This post was edited by Ron.M on Feb 25, 2009, 3:07 AM)


drmax
New User

Feb 25, 2009, 11:46 AM

Post #13 of 25 (4270 views)
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blue crt pic [In reply to] Can't Post

Here is a pic of what I "know" I slightly squeezed together on the blue crt. (just slightly) Just confirming with you...is this the centering ring tabes or the yoke adjustment tabs?


Here is what I mean by the "X". Being that the string lines and "X" will not match up, how do I know the "cross hatch" is perfect? (unless of course I'm only eyeballing it)


Also, I never had the front of tv apart. You mentioned working from the front of tv. I'll be "carefully" working from the back. (unless you specifically say otherwise)


(This post was edited by drmax on Feb 25, 2009, 11:50 AM)


Ron.M
Veteran


Feb 25, 2009, 8:44 PM

Post #14 of 25 (4263 views)
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Re: [drmax] blue crt pic [In reply to] Can't Post

drmax:..You've got to tell me HOW to upload pix here so I can upload some of my own to explain & show you better what I'm talking about..Sometimes with words alone , it can still be a bit confusing...

In reply:==>

In the first photo , the 2 tabs slightly bent at a 45* angle ARE "Centering Tabs"...(and that IS the yoke )....If you moved them only slightly , chances are they won't be a problem to correct...

In the 2nd photo,

Quote
Here is what I mean by the "X". Being that the string lines and "X" will not match up, how do I know the "cross hatch" is perfect? (unless of course I'm only eyeballing it)


The "X" I refer to is the "X" the strings form...The center of the "X" WILL be the center of the screen..This is our starting point..A "cross hatch" is a different animal...A "cross hatch" is a pattern of lines or dots that fill the entire screen from top to bottom & left to right...You're NOT showing a "cross hatch"....
In your drawing (you need lessons , by the way , ..Sly...) the "cross" is right where it should be...
What we're going to do exactly is put the CENTER of the "cross" to the CENTER of the "X" at the appropiate step..
Yes , you WILL be eyeballing it...& it may not be perfect..Don't worry as the end result should be about 90 to 95% accurate...Older sets RARELY achieve 100%...If you follow my lead , (step by step) I WILL get you as close as possible to perfection..

Quote
Also, I never had the front of tv apart. You mentioned working from the front of tv. I'll be "carefully" working from the back. (unless you specifically say otherwise)


Holy coolant , Batman !!! You mean to tell me that you pulled 3 CRT's & changed coolant FROM THE BACK !!! It would have been so much easier from the FRONT !!!
How close is the service manual that you have & I downloaded , do they match to your set???...I MUST have an answer to this question...When you , do I'LL give you an answer regarding working from the front or back..From the manual you gave me , it would have saved you MUCH time & work to do the job from the front...The front screen comes off easily & Ta Da , the CRT's are right in front of you...More on that later...
PLEASE let me know how you upload those great pix...It could be VERY helpful later on...

See ya later....Cool
Veteran & Retired TV technician


drmax
New User

Feb 25, 2009, 10:56 PM

Post #15 of 25 (4258 views)
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Re: [Ron.M] blue crt pic [In reply to] Can't Post

When I said cross hatch, I meant the single big cross in the middle. My bad and now we are on the same page, with that. As far as pulling the crts...the back has been off of the set, ever since I replaced the convergence IC's and 6 resistors. The anode leads are on the back of the set anyway. It was simply and by my pics, you see I obviously change the fluid out of the set. Enough of that.
To get the pics, you must have a digital camera. Take the pics and place in folder on desktop. Next got to www.photobucket.com or something like that (google it) create an account (free) and upload your pics to that website. Then you must cut the image from there, and paste in the forum. The pics automatically appear on the forum. Uh, they do not last forever, though. There are around 4 different type images you can cut from your loaded pics at that website. It is the last one on the list that works. The others top 3 do not. It takes a couple times doing it to get it right.
Now, how are the centering rings that same as the yoke? I thought these were two different things!
I'll snap another pic of the back of my set, so you have a better idea what my particular set looks like.


Ron.M
Veteran


Feb 25, 2009, 11:37 PM

Post #16 of 25 (4255 views)
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Re: [drmax] blue crt pic [In reply to] Can't Post

drmax:
Thanks for the info about uploading pix...I wont be able to use it , tho , as I do not have a digital camera..

Please answer my question about the manual versus the TV !!

.

Quote
"ever since I replaced the convergence IC's and 6 resistors"


Surprise , Surprise !!...First I heard of that !!....We may have MORE work to do !!

.

Quote

Now, how are the centering rings that same as the yoke? I thought these were two different things


They ARE 2 different things...The centering rings are PART of the yoke assembly..

.

Quote
I'll snap another pic of the back of my set, so you have a better idea what my particular set looks like


Please also show me pix of the 3 CRT's from the front ,IF you can, & from the rear...


Thank you...Later....Cool
Veteran & Retired TV technician


drmax
New User

Feb 26, 2009, 11:43 AM

Post #17 of 25 (4248 views)
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Re: [Ron.M] blue crt pic [In reply to] Can't Post

I'll have to re-read your question about manual, a bit later. Let me quickly explain IC's. I knew there was an issue with SSM. I "carefully" removed module and hand delivered and pic'd up, to a place called PTS. (electronis repair place that specializes in tv repairs...huge...google it...$50.) They did the repairs as I did not have time to pull each resistor and ck. I did to the IC replacement a month earlier. They replaced again with sanyo brand IC. Never-the-less, it is repair professionally and I know that module is working properly. I'll not be taking apart the front for the time being...see no reason to, unless you tell me differently. Here are 2 rear views of my set. Easier to work from the back. Maybe not very safe reaching through the wires though, to make adjustments. Please advise....






(This post was edited by drmax on Feb 26, 2009, 11:56 AM)


drmax
New User

Feb 26, 2009, 4:00 PM

Post #18 of 25 (4243 views)
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manual vs tv question... [In reply to] Can't Post

It is the same, here is the c/p from the service manual that you have downloaded....
(it asks to work from the back, see steps directly below)

Disassembly Procedures

A. Removal of a single CRT/Lens Assembly from the light rack

1a) Remove AC power from the PTV.

2a) Remove the upper and lower back covers (1/4" screws).

3a) Remove the barrier board and the shield cover from around the lens assemblies (1/4" screws).

4a) Carefully remove the CRT Socket Board from the CRT of the CRT/optical assembly being serviced.

5a) Remove the yoke and convergence plugs, of the CRT/optical assembly being serviced, from the

Large Signal Module.

6a) Remove the high voltage anode lead from the HV splitter block on the Large Signal Module of the

CRT/optical assembly being serviced. Remove ground lug connectors from the coupler frame.

7a) Remove the four 1/4" screws that secure the CRT/lens assembly to the light rack. These four screws

are located in each corner, on the top of the coupler assembly.

Caution: Do not remove the bolts with pressure springs or the inverted Torx screws of the

CRT/lens assembly. The removal of these components could result in fluid spillage into the

PTV cabinet.

8a) Carefully remove the CRT/lens assembly from the PTV cabinet.

Servicing the CRT/Optical Assembly

Caution: Do not attempt any repairs on the CRT/optical block assembly without first removing the CRT

coupling fluid. Removal of the delta output lens will result in spillage of the coupling fluid.

Caution: Coupling fluid is a poisonous solution containing a high concentration of ethylene glycol. Do

not leave exposed fluid unattended. Prevent children or pets from coming into contact with the fluid.

Clean up spills immediately.

B. Removing the PTV Coupling Fluid

All repairs made to the CRT/optical block assembly require the removal of the coupling fluid. The following

procedure describes how to remove the PTV coupling fluid.

1b) Lay the CRT assembly on its side with the plug pointing up.

2b) Remove the plug (X8).

3b) Remove some of the fluid from the coupler to prevent spillage when the CRT is removed. An empty

coupling fluid bottle with a cone top is recommended to lower the fluid level within the coupler.

Squeeze and hold the bottle and insert the tip of the cap into the drain hole of the coupler. Loosen the

grip on the bottle, allowing the fluid to be pulled up into the bottle. Save the fluid.

4b) Reinstall the plug (X8).

5b) Stand the CRT assembly up with the neck of the CRT pointing up.

6b) With an awl or marking pen, outline the edges of the CRT onto the coupler.

Note: The correct positioning of the CRT to the coupler is critical to the optimum performance of the

optical system.

7b) Remove the four CRT mounting bolts (A) (with springs and spacers) and remove the mounting

bracket (D).

8b) Remove the four CRT mounting ear screws.

Note: The CRT mounting ear screws are not used on some assemblies.

9b) Gently remove any metal shavings from around the screw holes. Do not allow the metal shavings to

get into the fluid.

10b) Note the position of the high voltage anode cap with respect to the coupler.

11b) Carefully remove the CRT from the coupler. Wipe any excess fluid from the faceplate of the CRT. Set

the CRT aside.

12b) Use an empty coupling fluid bottle to extract the remainder of the fluid from the coupler.

Note: Complete removal of the coupling fluid is not necessary when only replacing the CRT.

13b) Clean any remaining fluid from the coupler and the CRT gasket channel using absorbent tissue. Refer

to "C”. Cleaning the Coupler, C-element Lens and CRT Faceplate procedure if the fluid is discolored

or contaminated.

14b) Make all necessary repairs.

C. Cleaning the Coupler, C-element Lens and CRT Faceplate

1c) Remove CRT coupling fluid as described in steps 1b through 13b.

2c) Using denatured alcohol on a cloth made of 100% cotton or a lens cleaning tissue, gently clean the Celement

(fisheye) lens, coupler and the CRT faceplate. Thoroughly clean the coupler assembly,

including the expansion chamber bladder, and allow to fully dry.

Caution: Do not use soap or detergent type substances to clean the coupler and its related

assemblies. Water can be used as an alternative to denatured alcohol, but the assemblies must be

completely dry prior to reassembly of the coupler and the addition of the coupling fluid. A hair dryer

may be used to dry the coupler and its assemblies prior to reassembly. If contaminated fluid is

discovered, the coupler and its related assemblies must be completely disassembled and cleaned to

prevent a reoccurrence.

3c) Replace the CRT and C-element lens gaskets.

4c) Reassemble the C-element lens and the output lens to the coupler.

5c) Refer to "Replacing the CRT Coupling Fluid" upon completion of necessary repairs and cleaning of

the optical/coupler assemblies.

D. Replacement of the CRT

1d) Remove CRT coupling fluid as described in steps 1b through 13b.

2d) Remove the plastic protective coating (if present) from the faceplate of the replacement CRT.

3d) Refer to "Replacing the CRT Coupling Fluid" to complete the CRT replacement.

E. Repair or Replacement of the Optical/Coupler Assembly

1e) Remove CRT coupling fluid as described in steps 1b through 13b.

2e) Remove the four inverted-type Torx screws which secure the Delta output lens to the coupler. An

inverted-type Torx socket can be purchased using part number 483539517303.

3e) Removal of the Delta output lens will allow access to the C-element lens, C-element gasket, coupler,

and its assemblies.

4e) Refer to "Replacing the CRT Coupling Fluid" upon completion of necessary repairs to the

optical/coupler assemblies.

F. Replacing the PTV Coupling Fluid

Note: Prior to replacing the CRT coupling fluid, ensure the expansion chamber bladder is fully collapsed.

This can be easily inspected by viewing the bladder through the small hole on the expansion

chamber assembly. If the rubber of the bladder is not easily visible through the small hole, then the

bladder may be considered collapsed and fluid can be added. If the rubber of the expansion

chamber bladder is visible at the hole of the expansion chamber, then replacement of the expansion

chamber bladder is required.

Note: The CRT coupling fluid is critical to the optical performance of the PTV. Use only part number

483531057233 (3 bottle kit) or 483531067004 (1 bottle) to ensure the optical integrity and

performance reliability of the PTV when replacing the CRT coupling fluid.

1f) Reinstall the CRT gasket into the gasket channel of the coupler. Confirm the placement of the CRT,

C-element lens, and vent plug gaskets.

2f) Place the CRT onto the coupler with the high voltage anode lead positioned as marked in step 10b of

procedure B.

3f) Carefully position the CRT onto the coupler, using the outline defined in step 6b of procedure B as a

reference.

4f) Start the CRT mounting ear screws but do not tighten them.

5f) Tighten the CRT mounting ear screws in a star pattern (like tightening lug nuts on the wheel of a car).

Make sure the CRT does not shift position from the outline defined in step 6b.

Caution: Do not over tighten the CRT ear screws.

Note: The CRT mounting ear screws are not used on some assemblies.

6f) Install the CRT mounting bracket and start the four CRT mounting bracket bolts with springs.

7f) Tighten the bolts in a star pattern.

8f) Lay the CRT assembly on its side with the plug pointing up.

9f) Remove the plug.

10f) Using the PTV coupling fluid bottle with the cone top, refill the coupler with fluid through the drain

access hole. Completely fill the coupler chamber so the fluid is level with the top of the coupler at the

plug. Wipe any excess fluid from around the coupler.

11f) Reinstall the plug and check for any fluid leaks.


12f) Install the repaired CRT/optical block assembly into the PTV and perform any necessary adjustments



Ron.M
Veteran


Feb 26, 2009, 9:21 PM

Post #19 of 25 (4237 views)
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Re: [drmax] blue crt pic [In reply to] Can't Post

drmax: OK , 2 questions answered....

1st: Based on those excellent photos , the service manual is NOT the exact one for your TV...That does NOT mean that it's not useable...It should be very similar for what we may need from it..We'll see later...

2nd:..You WILL have to do my steps from the REAR...If you look at the service manual "Exploded Views" Page #184 , On the right center side of the drawing look for "AC 25" ( there are 4 shown) right behind the screen...Those are speakers , 2 for the right & 2 for the left....Between them , there is shown an "access panel" that does not have a number...You do NOT have that panel in your TV...No need to take the front apart...

You WILL need a VERY good mirror or an apprentice to help you with the adjustments....Use common sense & CARE when you reach in while set is on....Stay away from the red wires that run from the CRT's to the flyback...I'm hopeing that the screws on the yoke "hose clamps" are faceing the rear of the set so you can loosen / tighten them...

AND there is another thing you want to stay away from....In one of the photos , you have a silver bracket that holds all 3 CRT's with the #43 printed upside down on it...Hanging down from that bracket near the center is a black plastic unit that has 6 adjustments on it...There are 3 for "screen" & 3 for "focus".... One for each color...( Do not adjust these controls , yet..That'll come later)...The voltages there are high , but not VERY high & could give you a jolt...The side facing you is safe.. I'm refering to the side that faces the front of the TV...Oftentimes the connections on that side are uninsulated (bare wires)...Use care...

I've had quite a bit of experience with "PTS"...Some of the older tuners were a nightmare to fix , so they got the job...Good company...

Why were the IC's replaced a 2nd time ??..Even tho the module is OK , I'm curious...

See ya next time....Cool
Veteran & Retired TV technician


drmax
New User

Feb 26, 2009, 9:50 PM

Post #20 of 25 (4233 views)
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Re: [Ron.M] blue crt pic [In reply to] Can't Post

PTS did not question my work, rather the IC's i got off of ebay. They didn't want the hassle. While they replaced the 6 bad resistors, they changed those out. Flat cost for repair $54, new IC's or not. It's done and now the module is known "good".
1) ok, just to confirm (and this post is getting fairly long and much to read) when I loosen the clamp, then i slightly twist the plast that circles the tube next, to adjust the yoke? i'm a little unclear on this step.
2) also, how long does it normally take to discharge the crt, when pwr turned off? reason i ask, is you said to loosen/tighten clamp after tv is turned off. i can't afford to be hospitalized over this project. it not my only tv Shocked


Ron.M
Veteran


Feb 27, 2009, 12:52 AM

Post #21 of 25 (4231 views)
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Re: [drmax] blue crt pic [In reply to] Can't Post

drmax: In reply:==>


Quote
1) ok, just to confirm (and this post is getting fairly long and much to read) when I loosen the clamp, then i slightly twist the plast that circles the tube next, to adjust the yoke? i'm a little unclear on this step.

Don't worry about the length of this thread or posts...You've already posted 2 books here & nobody is complaining...Yet...Smile
If you over loosen the yoke it may just slide down the neck of the CRT...Do NOT let it slide all the way down as it could dammage the module at the bottom...Keep it from slideing...If it doesn't loosen up , let me know...I do NOT want you to FORCE it loose...Just grab the gray plastic part being careful so as to NOT disturb the "Centering Rings" as you do this...& GENTLY twist the yoke to free it up...This step is to LEVEL the horizontal line ONLY....The "X" part comes later...


Quote
2) also, how long does it normally take to discharge the crt, when pwr turned off? reason i ask, is you said to loosen/tighten clamp after tv is turned off. i can't afford to be hospitalized over this project. it not my only tv Shocked


You do NOT need to discharge the CRT's . PERIOD...If you do as I asked you to , the chances of you getting zapped are slim to none & slim left town...Wink
The precautions I gave you to follow are a safety measure....You'll be fine...
The reason I asked you to loosen / tighten the clamps is in case there's a problem (dropped tool , screw, etc )...You don't want any of those items to land on the chassis or somewhere where there's live voltages...Kapish ?? Until you get familiar with what you're doing , I want to be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN you're safe...



BTW: I don't do hospitals...Smile

Later...Greg...Cool
Veteran & Retired TV technician


drmax
New User

Feb 27, 2009, 11:35 AM

Post #22 of 25 (4227 views)
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Re: [Ron.M] blue crt pic [In reply to] Can't Post

Waiting till sunday to do this, as start of my weekend.
i wish i had an old crt laying around so i could take apart and see what you're talking about, i.e. loosening clamp and there is the yoke. i'll try to google it today to get an exploded view of how this works and what it is. pretty much clueless. yep, i'm the type that likes to know what i'm doing, b-4 messing up. thx man


Ron.M
Veteran


Feb 27, 2009, 11:56 PM

Post #23 of 25 (4220 views)
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Re: [drmax] clamp & yoke... [In reply to] Can't Post

drmax: When you loosen the "Hose Clamp" , you are also loosening the yoke...The "Hose Clamp is what holds the yoke up on the CRT..It's the complete unit ( with the grey plastic cover & copper wiring at the top end ) that includes the "centering rings" .....

The yoke , Hose Clamp & the centering rings are all part of 1 unit....

See ya Sunday...Good Luck..Cool
Veteran & Retired TV technician


drmax
New User

Feb 28, 2009, 1:16 PM

Post #24 of 25 (4217 views)
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Re: [Ron.M] clamp & yoke... [In reply to] Can't Post


In Reply To
drmax: When you loosen the "Hose Clamp" , you are also loosening the yoke...The "Hose Clamp is what holds the yoke up on the CRT..It's the complete unit ( with the grey plastic cover & copper wiring at the top end ) that includes the "centering rings" .....

The yoke , Hose Clamp & the centering rings are all part of 1 unit....

See ya Sunday...Good Luck..Cool ok, thx. so there is not a large risk of electrical shock my grasping the plastic to gently adjust? (you can't tell i'm nervous, can you?)



Ron.M
Veteran


Feb 28, 2009, 7:24 PM

Post #25 of 25 (4219 views)
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Re: [drmax] clamp & yoke... [In reply to] Can't Post

drmax:..


Quote
"so there is not a large risk of electrical shock my grasping the plastic to gently adjust?"

If you just grasp the grey plastic area ONLY , the risk is ZERO.



Quote
(you can't tell i'm nervous, can you?)

Who ?? Me tell ?? Naah...See ya Sunday....Cool
Veteran & Retired TV technician

(This post was edited by Ron.M on Feb 28, 2009, 7:25 PM)

 
 
 


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