Samsung 67" DLP won't stay on


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Samsung 67" DLP won't stay on

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Hunterkd
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Jan 17, 2016, 3:09 PM

Post #1 of 6 (2335 views)
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Samsung 67" DLP won't stay on	Can't Post

My Samsung HL-S6767W DLP TV shuts off until warmed up. The first time you turn it on, it stays on for 5-10 minutes, then shuts down with three lights blinking on power button. You can hear the color wheel spooling down and usually before it shuts down, you hear a faint buzz, pause, then buzz again. Each time you turn the TV on after the initial one, it shuts off a lot quicker, usually less than 1 minute. Eventually, it will stay on all day with no issues. This problem started a couple months ago and has slowly gotten worse. At first, it would only need to be restarted a couple times, then it was fine. Now, it could be 3 times, or 15 times! Here is what I’ve done: 1 – I checked the little blue switch (bypassed) – no difference. 2 – I bypassed a thermal sensor for the LAMP – no difference. 3 – I changed the LAMP – no difference. 4 – I had a home service tech come out, he checked the color wheel, said it seemed fine, then noticed a blown capacitor on the ballast. He changed the ballast and it didn’t make a difference. He mentioned DMD board or power-supply. I will say, the ballast did have a capacitor that looked blown (rounded top). He really thought that would fix it, but didn’t. One other thing I want to share, there are times when we are unsuccessful at getting it to stay on. It will try to come on, the recycle itself over and over until it eventually gives up (3 lights blinking). I think this is when we try to turn it on after it has been shut off for a while, but not long enough to cool completely down. As you can see, I’m getting to the point where I’m over-analyzing things. I’ll buy a new TV if I have to, but this TV still looks great and operates great once you get it on. Very frustrating!

Repair man
Enthusiast

Jan 19, 2016, 2:16 AM

Post #2 of 6 (2299 views)
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Re: [Hunterkd] Samsung 67" DLP won't stay on [In reply to]	Can't Post

Could be bad caps in the power supply but but very rare, its an even bigger chance that it is a bad color wheel.

I know you said you had a tech check the color wheel but they are very hard to diagnose. If the color wheel does not spin up to speed it will abort & shut down (might try 3 times then shut down). I've changed dozens & that usually fixes the problem. They are very delicate/fragile so be careful when handling them.

These are a very common color wheel in your set (cost around $80) below is a list of TV model numbers that color wheel will fit...

HLS4266WX/XAA
HLS6187WX/XAA
HLS6188WX/XAA
HLS6765WX/XAA 0001
HLS6765WX/XAA 0003
HLS6767WX/XAA
HLS7178WX/XAA
HLT5055WX/XAA
HLT5055WX/XAC PB01
HLT5055WX/XAC PB02
HLT5655WX/XAA 0001
HLT5656WX/XAA 0001
HLT5656WX/XAA 0002
HLT5656WX/XAC PF01
HLT5656WX/XAC PF02
HLT6156WX/XAA
HLT6756WX/XAA
HLT6756WX/XAC PF01
HLT6756WX/XAC PF02
HLS6186WX/XAC PB01
HLS6186WX/XAC PB02
HLS6186WX/XAC PB03
HLS6186WX/XAA
HLS4666WX/XAA
HLS5065WX/XAA
HLS5086WX/XAA
HLS5086WX/XAC PB01
HLS5086WX/XAC PB02
HLS5087WX/XAA
HLS5665WX/XAA 0001
HLS5665WX/XAA 0002
HLS5686CX/XAA
HLS5686WX/XAA
HLS5686WX/XAC PB01
HLS5686WX/XAC PB02
HLS5687WX/XAA
HLS5688WX/XAA
HLS6165WX/XAA
HLS6167WX/XAA
HLT7288WX/XAA

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Hunterkd
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Jan 25, 2016, 3:04 AM

Post #3 of 6 (2263 views)
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Re: [Repair man] Samsung 67" DLP won't stay on [In reply to]	Can't Post

Thank you for replying to my post. I went ahead and purchased a NEW color wheel, changed it out and same problem. Any other ideas, or should I give up and buy a TV? Thanks!

Repair man
Enthusiast

Jan 25, 2016, 5:03 AM

Post #4 of 6 (2259 views)
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Re: [Hunterkd] Samsung 67" DLP won't stay on [In reply to]	Can't Post

Are you serious? I'm sorry, I feel bad now that you spent more money upon my advice. I have changed so many color wheels in my shop over the years that I've lost count & it usually fixes them every time with the symptoms you are having. I guess the bright side of this is once you have this set going you have enough spare parts to keep it going for many more years.

I can tell you one thing, you are very quickly becoming an expert at TV repair with the amount you've learned on this set.

I'd say that the next thing to try would be to change the caps in the power supply. There are only 12 caps on that whole board so it would only cost around $10 - $20 to change them all. It won't be all of them that are bad (probably only one) but if you don't own an ESR capacitance meter it would be impossible to figure out which one is giving you the problems.

For anyone reading this post that's wants to repair electronics a good ESR meter costs around $300, I use one every day & have for years; it paid for itself literally the first day in the shop.

The capacitors I'm referring to in you power supply are the electrolytic capacitors, these caps have a positive & negative side to them (the negative side is marked) so be sure to install new ones in the same direction; the values will be printed on the sides of the caps, try to get the same values.

I'd really like to see you get this set going.

I found a YouTube video of someone working on a power supply for that set.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZmu0K8VrC8

One more thought on your set is there are cooling fans that are supposed to keep the lamp cool, perhaps one of those fans are not spinning fast enough & there are often sensors that detect their RPM & the sensors would signal the set to shut down.

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(This post was edited by Repair man on Jan 25, 2016, 5:31 AM)

Hunterkd
New User

Jan 26, 2016, 2:44 AM

Post #5 of 6 (2243 views)
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Re: [Repair man] Samsung 67" DLP won't stay on [In reply to]	Can't Post

It's not your fault, just an odd issue here. I work at a company that makes electronics. Maybe I should just take the power supply in. We probably have an ESR there. I will let you know what I find out. Thanks!

Hunterkd
New User

Jan 29, 2016, 3:24 AM

Post #6 of 6 (2222 views)
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Re: [Hunterkd] Samsung 67" DLP won't stay on [In reply to]	Can't Post

Well, I took the power supply to work. One of the 250v 820uf capacitors was noticably blown. We changed both of them, then fixed some cold solder joints near the hot spots. I really thought we had it. But, it still does the same thing! The only difference in the caps I purchased is they are 105 deg, not 85 deg. The techs at work said that wouldn't matter. What kind of 70 to 75" 4k TV do you recommend?

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