When the DMD board is shifted, the picture is shifted.

When I give you precautions, it is usually because I've been there and done that.

Overall, your TV is very easy to work on. But failing to take a couple precautions ahead of time, will lead to a very frustrating and time consuming issue when the set is put back together. You may get lucky, you may not.

When I replace any DMD on any Samsung, I take a 5 second measurement of the distance between the board, and the outer shield before I loosen the 3 DMD alignment screws. If you followed this, when you put the new DMD in, you simply follow those measurements. And as long as the tilt is correct, the horizontal and vertical adjustments can be done in the service menu.

Because the manual was showing them holding the dmd in.

If that board came out without removing them, then you are in much better shape.

That means everything on the alignment won't change. Cool for you. Those alignments SUCK!!

I can only go by a manual, I don't have your set in front of me.

I have been repairing TVs since 1986. The most important lessen I've learned in all that time,,,you can't know ever little detail about every TV on the market.

When I troubleshoot, especially when I haven't worked on a specific model or series in a while. Take note of ever sound, look at every detail. And most importantly, recognize where the pitfalls lie that can turn a 15 minute job into a 3 hour job.

On your TV or any DLP, the biggest pitfall is: changing the relationship between the DLP chip and the light tunnel. Without being able to see the fine details in the picture, I can't tell which version you have. So as a precaution, I've told you to measure this relationship before taking the DMD loose. It takes at most 2 minutes to find these measurements. So,,,,if you don't want to measure before hand, then you take that risk. I will tell you to error on the side of caution. It is your TV, do with it as you choose.

When you come to an internet forum asking for help, you seek our knowledge and experience. That is all we have, along with a couple of pictures. Those pictures will never replace me being able to listen, feel, and look closely at every detail. Lacking that, I have only so much information with which to direct you. So I will direct you in ways that will prevent bigger problems down the line. Will you potentially do or perform an extra step? Yes, you will. I do these extra steps sometimes when I work on things, because I've made the mistakes in the past that cost me a lot of time. The difference, when I've made those mistakes, I have the experience, service literature, and tools to correct those mistakes. You don't.

Rule number one of being a good Tech. Recognize the fact you don't and can't know it all. Use procedures that allow for quick and effective troubleshooting.

Rule number 2, don't make a problem worse by failing to notice a small detail. Mistakes are part of the business, learning how to minimize these mistakes are only gained through years of making them, and learning to recognize a potential mistake waiting to happen.

You are welcome to follow my advise, or not. Its your TV.

I'm not troubleshooting your TV, you are. I am only sharing what I've seen and know. Giving you an extra step that will potentially save you a headache later, is going to happen. If you want to come on here and complain that I've given you an extra step, that is fine. Your TV being fixed or not is your responsibility, not mine.

Yes, I mis-understood. Sorry, no offense taken, and hopefully none given. LOL

That's what I was hoping you would do,,,,get in there and do it. It isn't that difficult.

Take note however of your last picture,,,,the DLP chip is still against the light tunnel. Don't leave it there in that position, it can fall out and scratch the lens (for no better word). Also don't touch the glass area of the DLP chip.

You are all set to get that replaced and working..


On a side note, I just came from a call on a HLS5087,,,,does your set only have one board or two to the left of the light engine.. I thought all in that series had two,,,the one I was just on only had one.

Yes, that is it.

It plugs into the DMD board. The alignments are with the DMD in relation to the light tunnel. The DLP chip plugs into a socket similar to a computer CPU socket. Look closely at the back side of the DMD, there should be a place that it connects to the chip.

What I mean by this,,,,you will have to plug the DLP chip into the new DMD. I would normally suggest you do this before mounting the DMD, but if you can secure the chip, AND make sure you don't bend the pins plugging it in. Then that would also be acceptable. Just be careful,,,if you look close at that side of the chip, you'll see the small pins.

You are correct.

I do a lot of Mitsubishi DLP's,,,,,I get them mixed up.

Everything lines up with the metal support around the DLP chip. Just don't force things together. Everything else is easy from this point on. The only mistake I've seen people make here (and I've done it), is putting the ribbon cable that goes to the color wheel in backwards. With the DMD board installed. facing the DMD in the position of your last picture, the contacts will face you.....In other words, the 4 contact points in that ribbon cable will actually face towards the back of the TV when installed.

Look on your old DMD board. It looks like you pulled the socket for the plug you are holding off.

There is a catch on each of the plugs,,,if you don't press the release, it pulls the socket off.

I can't be sure from that angle though..

It may take me till this weekend to get back to you..I have a load tomorrow. Then a Hotel and LG training Friday.

So worst case, I'll have an answer by Saturday.

Yes that is the ballast supply voltage. And that is the correct plug.