Samsung HLS6187W DLP/Weird Problem/ Part 2


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Samsung HLS6187W DLP/Weird Problem/ Part 2

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satman858
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Jul 17, 2012, 4:26 PM

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I woke the other day and turned on my Samsung HLS6187W DLP HDTV, and some weird things are happening. When I turn on the TV, on the front panel of the TV the "Lamp" light comes on, fine there, but when I press any button keys on the remote control, volume, source, menu, and even the power button, nothing functions. I even tried the buttons on the front TV panel, and still nothing functions. The only thing that happens is, each time I tap a button either on the remote or front panel, the front panel "Timer" light blinks with each tap of a button. Also, what at first happening on the TV is, the picture would freeze for about 1 second every 20-30 seconds followed by a 1/2 second black screen, then after about 5 minutes of the TV being on, it then shuts itself down completely. That is what first happened, but now I am no longer even getting a picture, but I am getting a black screen, which ever so often has a small 1"-2" white line flash completely across the middle of the screen which spans from one end of the screen to the other.

Here is some additional information as to what I have tried to do.

The Lamp that was in the TV when I started having problems is 2 1/2 years old. I had an old lamp with a housing in my garage that was I had in it before the light engine was changed in 2007, so I tried that Lamp, but it will only stay lit for 30 seconds before going out. So I took the back cover off completely, and after vacuuming some of the dust in and around everything back there, I put the 2 1/2 year old lamp back in, and the lamp light stayed on, (which leads me to believe the Lamp is ok) however like I said earlier the screen stays black, except for a very occasional (about every 30-60 seconds) the white horizontal line flashes across the screen for about a 1/2 second, then after about 5 minutes the Lamp will then shut off. I still have no remote control or front panel functions, (even by not being able to turn off the TV) except when I touch the keys, the front panel "Timer" light flashes with each touch of a key. Since there is no button functions I can not get into the TV menu, but since the TV now has a black screen, I guess getting in the menu does not matter anyway. I am willing to replace parts, but would like to know which parts might need replacing. I bought a Samsung UN60ES6100 from Best Buy last week for 2 grand, and have 30 days to bring it back, so if I can fix my old DLP by that time I will return the new one back to Best Buy.

Is there anyone that knows what is causing these problems, especially the strange loss of remote key functions and front TV panel functions?

To me I think it might be some kind of computer malfunction in the TV, but then I am certainly no TV tech like many of you guys are.

I have tried posting my problems in other forums for a week now, and have gotten no help at all.
Any and all help will be deeply appreciated.

satman858
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Jul 17, 2012, 4:30 PM

Post #2 of 82 (12351 views)
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70f100 You said you've already tried a known good lamp.
You have a lock up issue, with lines and no control.
Normally this would indicate a digital board,,,but in my experience it is just as common place to have a DMD.
Don't over think what is wrong,,,,follow troubleshooting steps to isolate the problem. Light tapping usually won't create or correct the issue....try a little harder.
If you can't get it to come on with these steps. You'll need to take voltage reading along the power paths through the power supply to the digital pcb to the DMD. I don't give any credibility to cause and effect trouble shooting,,,,,,,25 years has shown me literally thousands of examples of why that rarely works.

Jim,

Tonight I tried putting more pressure on the DVI cable going to the DMD board like you said to try doing, and guess what, it caused the Lamp shut down. I waited 30 minutes and tried doing it again, but this time the lamp did not go out until I tapped a few times on the DMD cage. The 3rd time I tried unplugging it for 30 minutes, and plugging it back in nothing powered on at all in the back (it was as if it was a complete dead TV) but I heard a slight soft sounding click each time i would try plugging it in, so I told my wife in front the TV to try tuning it on with the remote, and guess what, for the first time the remote powered up the TV. But then things got sad again, as nothing changed and still no picture on the screen, but that occasional small white horizontal line across the screen.

If you still think it might be the DMD board, they have a used one for my model on Fleabay for about 60 bucks including shipping.
Since the Lamp stays lit, does that mean I am not have a bad Ballast problem?

I don't have a problem buying a few other things if needed. I can get a used working Ballast on Fleabay for $36 including shipping, and a power supply for $40 including shipping. That would by only $136.00 for all 3 of those main components. The most likely culprit I would want to buy first, as it may solve my problem. I do however know that there is basically little if know warranty in buying those used parts.

Here is why I would rather choose to do the above:

The only thing I have in the way of anything that may measure voltage is a little 7 Function Multi Tester I got from Harbor Freight as one of their free coupon gifts. I wouldn't know where to I have never tested anything for voltage before, and would not know how or where to start on any of the boards or switches.

(This post was edited by satman858 on Jul 17, 2012, 4:43 PM)

satman858
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Jul 17, 2012, 6:33 PM

Post #3 of 82 (12347 views)
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74f100 That sounds much more like the DMD.

Before ordering, make sure of the part number on the board.

Then when replacing it, check the measurements of the board in relation to the light engine. Preferably use a micrometer to measure the distance at bottom right, bottom left (from bottom). Left middle (from left side). etc.

The DMD positions the picture on the screen. If the DMD is positioned too far left, the video will be too far left.

There are no short cuts here, it will take time and patience to get it right. There are no short cuts I can give you to make it easier other than measuring before removing the old one.

Good luck,
Jim
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks Jim, I will start with replacing the DMD board and hope that solves the problem.

Do you know what the piece is called that electrical cord plugs into on the TV end that connects to the power supply board, as the electrical cord end fits loosely in that fitting, cause many clicking sounds (from what I think is coming from the power supply board) if it is not postioned at a certain spot?

74f100
Enthusiast

Jul 17, 2012, 10:00 PM

Post #4 of 82 (12340 views)
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Re: [satman858] Samsung HLS6187W DLP/Weird Problem/ Part 2 [In reply to]	Can't Post

Power plug....look on encompassparts.com for the parts breakdown.

Or call ShopJimmy to see if they show it with a cable kit.

BTW, no reason to start duplicate threads... Jammer does a great job of removing them (thus their posts) when we find and report them.
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(This post was edited by 74f100 on Jul 18, 2012, 2:07 AM)

satman858
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Jul 18, 2012, 4:04 AM

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Thanks Jim, I will call Shopjimmy's tomorrow.

About the second thread. I am sure Jammer does a great job, but I created it because for two straight days I had 25 -30 emails filling up my email inbox, so today I unchecked the subscribed box to every post I made in that thread to finally stop it from happening.

It looks like the entire tray that the fan and DMD board seems to be on top of should slide out with a few screws removed. If that is the case, I think it would be better to remove the DMD board once removed, so I can it would be easier to mark the spot when the new DMD board will go.

Does that sound right to you?

Also I read that I MUST make sure that I not only get the right DMD board by it's model number, but possibly even the version number from the TV.

Does that sound right too?

Before I order the part I want to get it removed, to make sure it is the right one before buying it.

74f100
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Jul 18, 2012, 4:14 AM

Post #6 of 82 (12334 views)
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Re: [satman858] Samsung HLS6187W DLP/Weird Problem/ Part 2 [In reply to]	Can't Post

Correct on the model, version number, and part number on the board in your TV..

To get to the DMD, remove the Light Engine. Two black screws on the bottom. Then disconnect the DVI cable, two cable that connect the DMD to the main, and finally the ballast power plug.

Then remove the DMD fan, and the cover to the DMD board. DO NOT remove the 3 screws that are under the plastic covers on the DMD cover. These align the DMD thus the picture position.

Use a marker to mark the position of everything, and measure as I told you earlier. Once you get this far into it, I won't be able to help you. You must pay attention to detail (sorry old Airborne saying), it is something that only comes with experience. I can't teach that part.....sorry.
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satman858
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Jul 18, 2012, 8:17 PM

Post #7 of 82 (12326 views)
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First off Jim I don't own a micrometer.
Is there any other way I can do this measuring thing, flare pen, scratches on the chassis, or any other way?

Is it the light engine, or DMD board, or possibly more parts that would need the side to side measurements to assure that it is placed in the same spot it was before on the chassis?

In the directions in this quote you say "To get to DMD, remove the Light Engine first."

Any reason you why you would start from the back where the light engine is, and work froward to the DMD board and not just work from the front where the fan is, and work from front to back to remove the DMD board?

Below are some photos from different angles of my TV unit that I have since removing the chassis.

(This post was edited by satman858 on Jul 18, 2012, 8:19 PM)

74f100
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Jul 18, 2012, 9:35 PM

Post #8 of 82 (12319 views)
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You have the light engine out.

Light engine and light tunnel are not the same.
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satman858
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Jul 18, 2012, 11:39 PM

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You have the light engine out.

Light engine and light tunnel are not the same.

I have nothing detached from the chassis yet, as I am awaiting for you to answer my questions in my above post. When you have the time to get a chance to read and answer them for me, I will attempt to take it apart to change the DMD board.

74f100
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Jul 18, 2012, 11:42 PM

Post #10 of 82 (12316 views)
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Re: [satman858] Samsung HLS6187W DLP/Weird Problem/ Part 2 [In reply to]	Can't Post

Your pictures are of the light engine,,,it is removed.

You have to remove the fan(the one blocking the DMD board) and the dmd cover to mark anything.
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74f100
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Jul 18, 2012, 11:50 PM

Post #11 of 82 (12314 views)
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You have the Light Engine out,,,,not the chassis.

The shiny silver cover in your first picture is the cover over the DMD board..making sense now?
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satman858
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Jul 19, 2012, 12:35 AM

Post #12 of 82 (12312 views)
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You have the Light Engine out,,,,not the chassis.

The shiny silver cover in your first picture is the cover over the DMD board..making sense now?

I am calling the chassis, the bottom tray that slide out of the TV which the light engine, DMD board, and Fan are attached to. The light engine has been removed from the TV, but it is still attached to what I am calling a chassis. I still don't know what measurements need to be marked before I attempt to disassemble any parts. I want to make sure that I do everything right and have everything marked correctly, so that when I reassemble the light engine back to what I am call the chassis, along with replacing the the DMD board with the new DMD board, that they are aligned correct, whereby no adjustments will need to be made to get the picture on the TV.

74f100
Enthusiast

Jul 19, 2012, 12:58 AM

Post #13 of 82 (12311 views)
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You can't call it a chassis...That breaks all Television repair etiquette standards. LOL

If you take the shiny silver cover off, it will make sense. Just don't remove the 3 screws under those white plastic covers. They align the dmd board to the light tunnel. When you have the new dmd board and are ready to exchange them, then you take those 3 out.

When that cover is off, you'll see how the board itself is spaced vertically and horizontally within the mounting area. This is what you want to mark, measure, or what ever you choose to do. The new one MUST go back in, in the same position. If it doesn't, you will still get a picture, it'll just be shifted up, down, left, right, or canted.
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satman858
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Jul 19, 2012, 6:30 AM

Post #14 of 82 (12309 views)
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Okay Jim, I see where those screws are behind the plastic covers. I will not touch them for now. Are there any other screws I should take out for now?

I don't understand it when you say this:

"When that cover is off, you'll see how the board itself is spaced vertically and horizontally within the mounting area. This is what you want to mark, measure, or what ever you choose to do. The new one MUST go back in, in the same position. If it doesn't, you will still get a picture, it'll just be shifted up, down, left, right, or canted."

1st- I don't understand all this vertical and horizontal spacing and measuring, you are talking about. Wouldn't all the screws go back into the spots they come from when the DMD board is slipped out, and new DMD board slipped back in?

2nd- From the pictures of the DMD board I am going to buy off ebay, the square metal gizmo (LOL) directly in the middle, (you know the one) the one with the 4 outer screws, and the 4 inner screws with springs trying to pop out from behind them, will have to come off the DMD board too. When will I be taking them out?

The screws that seem to be the ones that should give me problems, are the ones with those springs behind them.

One last thing. The last picture will be a picture of my unit with the cover off. But there are 2 DMD boards on fleabay, both saying that they are for my model TV, and both look identical to my DMD board.

The first picture of the DMD board on fleabay is "NEW" but it has a different CODE number BP94-02269A then what mine says on my DMD board, but they say it is for my TV. It looks identical to mine. Take a look yourself, and tell me if you think it would be okay!

Here is what is in the listing: "Ordered for customer, but never used. Used on Samsung TV's known models that use this part: SAMSUNG HLS5087WX/XAA SAMSUNG HLS5088WX SAMSUNG HLS5088WX/XAA SAMSUNG HLS5688WX SAMSUNG "SAMSUNG HLS6187WX/XAA" HLS6167WX SAMSUNG HLS6188WX SAMSUNG HLS6767WX SAMSUNG HLS7178WX SAMSUNG HLT6156WX/XAA SAMSUNG HLT6156WXXAA SAMSUNG HLT6756W"

The second picture of the DMD on fleabay is "USED" but it has the same CODE number BP41-00273B as the one in my TV, which it also looks identical to mine. Take a look at it too.

The reason I am asking about this is because I feel better about the seller from the different model number. Give me your opinion please on if you would feel safe in buying the one in the first picture.

(This post was edited by satman858 on Jul 19, 2012, 1:25 PM)

satman858
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Jul 20, 2012, 1:23 AM

Post #15 of 82 (12298 views)
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I hope 70f100 comes back in here and can answer my questions, as I am bout to scrap this project and send it to the salvage yard.
I wanted to order the DMD board in the morning, before I left mid-day tomorrow for Pensacola Florida until Sunday night.

(This post was edited by satman858 on Jul 20, 2012, 1:40 AM)

74f100
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Jul 20, 2012, 10:30 PM

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I had to cross the parts for your model.
Samsung is showing a BP96-01581a for the WX/XAA model number.
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74f100
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Jul 20, 2012, 10:36 PM

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The other screws and the screws with the springs are to hold the DLP chip support and the DLP chip to the DMD.

They only go on one way,,,, but make sure you get the heat sink seated correctly, don't force it.

The rest,,,I can't really explain it any clearer...You'll just have to take it apart, then you'll see what I mean.

Remember, I do this all day for a living. I also have a family. There are times I just don't have the time to help. I will do my best to answer quickly, but my work and family have to come first..
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satman858
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Jul 21, 2012, 3:51 PM

Post #18 of 82 (12276 views)
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I had to cross the parts for your model.
Samsung is showing a BP96-01581a for the WX/XAA model number.

Samsung is also showing BP94-02269A for for model HLS6187WX/XAA.

http://www.samsungparts.com/...94-02269A.aspx?model=

satman858
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Jul 21, 2012, 4:00 PM

Post #19 of 82 (12275 views)
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Okay now I know that the DLP Chip is the big silver looking thing in the middle being held on by the screws with the springs. Now what does the Heat Sink look like and where is it located?

P.S. Bill, you a credit to this forum, without good people like you, this forum would not be the forum it is. I deeply appreciate every reply you make, and hell if it was not for you, I would not be taking on a job to fix something I know absolutely nothing about. Thanks once again.

74f100
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Jul 21, 2012, 4:07 PM

Post #20 of 82 (12273 views)
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Well thank you, I do try. It just seems there is never enough time in one day.

Yes, there are some very good Techs here on this forum.

Back to your TV, the heat sink is the part held on by the clip, it has the fins to dissipate heat from the DLP chip. The silver thing isn't the chip, the chip is under it.
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satman858
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Jul 22, 2012, 4:31 PM

Post #21 of 82 (12257 views)
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So are you saying the Heat Sink is the silver thing I am seeing, and that the DLP chip will not be seen until I take the screws with the springs out of the silver thing, which I am understanding to be the Heat Sink. Is that correct?

Does anyone in this forum know where I can find pictures of all the parts being removed when changing the DMD board?

Knowing what these parts look like will serve to help quite a bit.

74f100
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Jul 23, 2012, 1:00 AM

Post #22 of 82 (12255 views)
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Take that clip off across the heat sink, then you'll see the dlp chip.
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satman858
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Jul 23, 2012, 5:58 AM

Post #23 of 82 (12249 views)
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Ok Jim,
I just got back home from out of town tonight.
Here is going to be the order of the removal of everything. Before I do anymore I will wait to here back from you to see if this order will be okay.

1. Remove the clip over the Heat Sink
2. Remover the 4 screws with the springs behind them.
3. Remove the 4 screws that are next to the screws with the springs behind them.
4. Remove the 4 screws on the outer corners of the DMD board.
5. Leave the 3 screws that were under the white plastic covers alone, until I get the new DMD board.

(This post was edited by satman858 on Jul 23, 2012, 6:05 AM)

74f100
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Jul 23, 2012, 11:21 AM

Post #24 of 82 (12245 views)
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That would be a good plan.

Good luck, and take your time.

Jim
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satman858
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Jul 23, 2012, 10:26 PM

Post #25 of 82 (12235 views)
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That would be a good plan.

Good luck, and take your time.

Jim

Jim,
I don't know why you said to me to make sure that I measure and mark anything. To me nothing needs marking. The DMD board can be removed be just taking all the screws out, except the 3 screws that were behind the white caps that are for the light engine. It looks to me as if I can just place the new DMD board back the way the old one came out, and just reinstall the screws I removed, hook up all the electrical fitting plugs like they were before, and reinstall it back into the TV.

If I right with these assumptions, then tell me what needs measuring?

Below is a photo of the removed DMD board.

(This post was edited by satman858 on Jul 24, 2012, 12:40 AM)

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