I was able to go to the service menu and pull 5 error codes (with counts).
36 (58)- Tube Is Still Not Warm After Warmup Time
33 (163)- Safety Circuit Is Active
84 (15)- Tube Type Is RP, But Convergence Was Not Detected
37 (5)- Vertical Problem
34 (3)- Horizontal Flyback Problem

CP130 is showing no increase in resistance when multimeter is applied.

According to my generic manual for the ITC222 chassis , CP130 is a 220 mfd 35 vdc lytic cap on the 16 vdc line that starts off pin 14 of LP050 in the power supply.

UNLESS the cap IS bad , you won't see a resistance reading on that cap.

According to my service manual error code 33 is "BV500 not connected"....
BV500 is (I THINK !!) a multi blade pin connector that can be easily damaged when disconnected & then re-connected hap-hazardly....
This connector is probably one of the ones that you disconnected to make the initial repair....

Would you be willing to give me a link to the manual you are using for those error codes ?

I love it when the manual agrees with reality :) That is what it is on my board as well.

I was taught (many years ago, and never used it outside of the classroom until now) that you could check capacitors by measuring resistance, a functioning capacitor will start off with low resistance and gradually increase as it stores electricity. This held true for all of the other capacitors that I checked. I don't know if they are within spec, just that they are charging.

The manual seems to predate my particular model, but all of the information about the chassis has been accurate.

1) Not MY thread.
2) ALL Three responses were NOT directed towards: "Re: [philnotfil] ....".

Ron's losin' it (again). That's the second reference to that link in this thread.

Quote
I love it when the manual agrees with reality :) That is what it is on my board as well.
Are you refering to my manual OR yours ????

1st off , the link that you gave me twice is for a "Field Service Guide" & NOT a true "Service" manual.

The manual you have , I think , is not going to be of much help.

Many years ago when TVs were made with vacuum tubes that cap method came out....
By doing that check , you accomplish nothing....
All that is telling you is that there is some ability by that cap to accept a charge , & that's all....
There are many caps that will not show a charging effect on a meter & still be good....
Your last sentence above is 100% CORRECT !!!!

Based on what I see with the error codes puts the rest in doubt....
In other words , I found the error codes to be erroneous...

If he wants to contribute to this thread , he will...
Right now , he's watching me/us squirm with this problem....Unsure....
He & I exchange quips , correct each other etc....All in a friendly manner....

I can use the troubleshooting flowchart in that field service guide to identify any remaining problems.

So a capacitor increasing in resistance is taking a charge, but a capacitor not increasing in resistance may or may not be taking a charge? Now I'm confused. CP135, right next to the problem child is the same (220mfd, 35v) and shows the expected increase in resistance. What would allow CP130 to not show this increase in resistance and still be functional? Should I go straight to the troubleshooting flowchart, or wait until I replace this capacitor? If it really is bad I might as well fix it first, if the lack of increasing resistance doesn't mean it is bad then I may as well start the troubleshooting process. I think :)

Now I'm confused. CP135, right next to the problem child is the same (220mfd, 35v) and shows the expected increase in resistance. What would allow CP130 to not show this increase in resistance and still be functional?

Hmm, I find the "safety circuit is active" error to be a more plausible interpretation of error code 33 than the BV500. It does seem to be the safety circuit shutting down the TV.

I should have used a bigger smiley when I was ribbing him :)

Let's clear this up once & for all.......
You are NOT reading resistance...PERIOD !!!!
You are watching a cap absorb microamps of electrons that are reading thru your meter....
When your meter is set to ohms , the meter puts out a low voltage across the probes...
When a RESISTOR is connected across the probes , a mini current flows thru the resistor...
The meter's circuit detects the voltage drop across that resistor & converts that to a reading that you get....
Depending on the amount of the drop will change the reading accordingly.,....
IF the drop is varying as it does when you hook up a cap , so does the reading....
You are seeing the cap take a CHARGE & when it reaches it's limit , the reading stops....
IF you read ohms at that point , chances are that the cap IS bad....
Is this settled now ????

I'm not sure what our communication problem is. When I read what you said, and what I said, we said the same things. Set the multimeter to ohms, read the capacitor, if the reading increases, the capacitor is taking a charge. If the reading doesn't increase the capacitor is dead. Just because it is still capable of taking a charge doesn't mean that it is working well enough to do the job, and could still need to be replaced. If it isn't taking a charge, it definitely needs to be replaced.

I'm not sure what our communication problem is.

If the reading doesn't increase the capacitor is dead. & If it isn't taking a charge, it definitely needs to be replaced.