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Crumbtrail TV Forums: TV Equipment: Projection TV Forum:
Toshiba 42H82 Convergence Issues

 

 


CNYMark
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Oct 12, 2011, 3:59 PM

Post #1 of 25 (9391 views)
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Toshiba 42H82 Convergence Issues Can't Post

Started last night, to interrupt the enjoyment of the baseball playoffs, but the Blue horizontal lines became seriously out of registration. Touch Focus ( auto convergence...) gave no relief, and came up to Touch Focus Error. Manual convergence would not effect change to the appropriate color, nor movement. Likewise a attempt to enter the Service Mode did not work with my old remote , or with the cable remote ( Time Warner 1056B01 set to operate the Toshiba 42H82), or on the front screen controls. I unplugged the set for over 1 hour and tried it again, no change from initial attempt. I have not yet cracked the TV open to look for burned resistors on the signal printed circuit board (PCB), nor ordered new ICs. Is there anything else I should be trying before I attempt to change out the ICs, like re-flowing the solder? or anything similiar ? Is there any test to verify which IC is bad on the board? Anyone have access to schematics?



jts1957
Veteran


Oct 12, 2011, 7:40 PM

Post #2 of 25 (9384 views)
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And tho' it's been said many times, many ways ...

1) STAY OUT OF THE SERVICE MENU;
2) do a search of this site (4 pages of results);
3) Service literature is available on the web (you'll also have to search there);
4) Change the convergence IC's, checking the bias resistors for the correct value.
Angelic


-------------------------
Location: Far, Far Away

(This post was edited by jts1957 on Oct 12, 2011, 7:43 PM)


Ron.M
Veteran


Oct 12, 2011, 8:23 PM

Post #3 of 25 (9381 views)
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CNYMark;......




Let me ask a few questions;....
When you try to adjust the Red convergence , can you move the line up & down ???
When you try to adjust the Red convergence , can you move the line left & right ???
When you try to adjust the Blue convergence , can you move the line up & down ???
When you try to adjust the Blue convergence , can you move the line left & right ???



Quote
#1..Is there anything else I should be trying before I attempt to change out the ICs, like re-flowing the solder? or anything similiar ? #2..Is there any test to verify which IC is bad on the board? #3..Anyone have access to schematics?


#1...Re-flowing the solder is a good start...
#2...When it comes time to replace the convergence ICs;...
Replace BOTH ICs using GENUINE SANYO replacements ONLY !!!!
Cheap generic ICs WILL give you GUARANTEED problems !!!
#3...I am trying to find a manual...
I will post later with results...
In the meantime , PLEASE answer my questions & post results....THANKS....Smile...

A STRONG piece of friendly advice;.....
Do NOT go into the "Factory Menu" UNLESS you are a TRAINED TV Technician...
It is TOO easy for novices to dink around with those settings & they wind up with a PERMANENTLY screwed up set...
The "Service Mode" (aka "Factory Menu") is NOT a silver bullet !!!!

Have a GREAT day...


Later...Ron.M....Cool.....
Veteran & Retired TV technician

(This post was edited by Ron.M on Oct 12, 2011, 8:27 PM)


Ron.M
Veteran


Oct 12, 2011, 9:02 PM

Post #4 of 25 (9377 views)
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Re: [CNYMark] Toshiba 42H82 Convergence Issues [In reply to] Can't Post

 

CNYMark;.....

I could not find a 42H82 ...
I did find a 42H80 , which may be close....
Try here;=>...
http://servicetron.com/toshiba-2.html

It's a slow loading website for me...
It may be for you also....
Scroll down to 42H80 & click on that...
Your download should start...
OR you can scroll down almost to the bottom to 50H82 & try that one on for size...
Just 8" bigger , not sure if the convergence ICs etc are the same as a 42"...


Hope this helps....


Later....Ron.M....Cool....
Veteran & Retired TV technician


CNYMark
New User

Oct 12, 2011, 9:44 PM

Post #5 of 25 (9373 views)
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Thanks Guys-
The toshiba allows you to manually enter a user convergence interface where you can choose Red or Blue only. I can move red all ways, I can only move Blue left or right, and not up and down. the red is now registered with the green, and the blue remains off.
BTW, the owners manual I have is for models 42H82, 50H82,57H82,65H82.....so for what's there ( user features and instruction) those are the same. I would guess that they're different individually on the boards, from a component prespective. It will be a couple of days before I can get this down to the basement and on the table where I can open it up
I have previously reflowed solder or changed out components on different devices successfully ( tube amps, car controls, iphone too ( but really small....) so I'm willing to do this, but why would I want to change both ICs if only one has gone bad. ? ( if I could learn which one.....) I'm usually of the mind that the least amount of board soldering /mussing with, that fixes the problem is better than mucking up some ic pads on one that was working. Again, first time in a tv, but wanted to know which one is affecting blue convergence with that in mind....
Also the blue horizontal line , top and bottom are curved, rather than straight with the worst to the screen right and almost on, screen left.

Thanks

CNYMark


jts1957
Veteran


Oct 12, 2011, 10:04 PM

Post #6 of 25 (9367 views)
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Because they have the same hours.

Would you like to do same repair TWICE within 6 - 12 months?Unimpressed


-------------------------
Location: Far, Far Away


Ron.M
Veteran


Oct 12, 2011, 10:21 PM

Post #7 of 25 (9366 views)
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CNYMark;....


IF the convergence ICs are found to be bad , you NEVER change JUST ONE....(& they are bad)....
IF you put 2 new tires on the front of the car & you drive on them for 1,000s of miles , they eventually will wear down , & will , with some people , go bald...
You don't change just one tire , you change BOTH !!!!
The same rule applies to convergence ICs...
They BOTH wear out the same...
Do you REALLY want to do this TWICE ????....SOON ???

The ICs are not that expensive.....
Usually about $24 USD for BOTH...
Post the "STK" numbers (I suspect STK392-110) & I'll find you GOOD replacements...
OR you can use your own resources...


Quote
I'm usually of the mind that the least amount of board soldering /mussing with, that fixes the problem is better than mucking up some ic pads on one that was working.

IF you are that bad at soldering that you are worried about "mucking up some ic pads" , you best call a professional TV tech & let him "muck up some ic pads" & get paid for it....Wink...
But , on the other hand , IF you have some decent soldering experience (& it sounds like you do) , I'd give it a go....
IF you use a good desoldering braid with resin , desoldering should be relatively easy....



Quote
the red is now registered with the green, and the blue remains off.
&
Also the blue horizontal line , top and bottom are curved, rather than straight with the worst to the screen right and almost on, screen left.

Confirmed , convergence ICs bad !!!!!


Have fun....Wink.....


Later...Ron.M.....Cool...
Veteran & Retired TV technician

(This post was edited by Ron.M on Oct 12, 2011, 10:23 PM)


CNYMark
New User

Oct 13, 2011, 1:20 AM

Post #8 of 25 (9357 views)
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Ok, I'll defer to the experience, although I would tend to argue the tire analogy.....
It's certainly not the cost, cause they're fairly cheap.But, hey, if one breast has cancer, that doesn't necessitate a double mastectomy. But, I'll just change them both, but I wanted to explore the reasoning, and the knowledge here. My experience with the other ( more vintage ) electronics makes me cautious about wholesale swaps....unless its warranted...and in this case I'm convinced that it may be the more prudent path. At least by those who post here......

Thanks guys!

CNYMark
newbie fixin' the tv.....


Ron.M
Veteran


Oct 13, 2011, 3:40 AM

Post #9 of 25 (9353 views)
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CNYMark;....

OK , IF & when you drive your car with one new tire & one bald tire on the front , PLEASE let us ALL know so we can park our cars....Wink...

Stop & think about what jts1957 said...
BOTH ICs were most likely factory made at or near the same time....
Once in your TV , BOTH ICs got the SAME amount of use & abuse from heat...
BOTH ICs WILL have the SAME lifespan...
Therefore , BOTH ICs can be expected to go at OR near the SAME time...
You are NOT doing a wholesale swap....PERIOD !!!
You ARE preventing another IC failure VERY SOON...



Quote
But, hey, if one breast has cancer, that doesn't necessitate a double mastectomy.

THAT IS the WORST POSSIBLE comparison I've EVER seen...
There ARE a number of women who HAVE opted for a double mastectomy after just one breast was found to have cancer just to PREVENT the disease from returning in the breast that wasn't removed in the first place...
While it isn't automatic to remove a good breast , with some women they feel more secure & safer from a re-occurrence....
IF you have a wife OR girlfriend , repeat that statement to them & watch out for fireworks...
You're talking apples & oranges here...



Quote
It's certainly not the cost, cause they're fairly cheap.


Replace BOTH ICs using GENUINE SANYO replacements ONLY !!!!
Cheap generic ICs WILL give you GUARANTEED problems !!!


I've been doing this for 50 years & have no idea how long jts1957 has , but you'd be wise to follow our advice....
We're here to give you good advice & NOT SELL you or anyone else parts....

Please keep us posted on your progress.....


Have a nice evening....Sly....



Later...Ron.M....Cool...
Veteran & Retired TV technician


CNYMark
New User

Oct 14, 2011, 3:18 PM

Post #10 of 25 (9343 views)
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Re: [Ron.M] Toshiba 42H82 Convergence Issues [In reply to] Can't Post

As I said, I will be changing out both of the ICs.
The originals are STK392-110s. Should I order those, or should I be using the STK394-150-E that I read is a upgraded chip? I was going to use http://www.audiolabga.com, as I see here they are a trusted vendor.

Thanks again to all for your time and expertise.

Mark


Ron.M
Veteran


Oct 14, 2011, 6:02 PM

Post #11 of 25 (9338 views)
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CNYMark;....

There are several of us including me , that would advise you to STAY with the originals...(STK392-110)...
Upgrades of this type are prone to giving unexpected problems...
But , it's your TV & your call....Smile....

BTW:....
I noticed that
http://www.audiolabga.com/...st_button=Search+All
Also has "Made in China" on the top listing for STK392-110....
My advice would be to get the "STK392-110-E" which are SANYO ICs...
They also cost more , but you wont reget it in the long run...
GOOD LUCK....Sly....

Have a GREAT day & weekend....Sly...


Later...Ron.M.....Cool....
Veteran & Retired TV technician

(This post was edited by Ron.M on Oct 14, 2011, 6:11 PM)


CNYMark
New User

Oct 14, 2011, 6:06 PM

Post #12 of 25 (9335 views)
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That's enough for me, originals it is.

Thanks, Ron,

Mark


Ron.M
Veteran


Oct 14, 2011, 6:13 PM

Post #13 of 25 (9333 views)
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CNYMark;....


See my edit....
THANKS...


Later...Ron.M...Cool...
Veteran & Retired TV technician


CNYMark
New User

Oct 21, 2011, 4:35 PM

Post #14 of 25 (9280 views)
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R7716 is burned. Will I just change this resistor, or did one take out the other (the ICs)?
Also I haven't separated the tan board from the green signal board yet, because I'm not sure how those bridge connectors ( my name for them) come apart. Can anyone describe how to separate them so I can get the board out of it's frame to work on this? I can post pics if that will help.....

Thanks

Mark


Ron.M
Veteran


Oct 21, 2011, 6:25 PM

Post #15 of 25 (9275 views)
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CNYMark;.....

Could NOT find the exact manual for your TV....
I have the manual(?) for 56H80/40H80....
It is a piece of s#!t...NO adjustments,NO parts list ,NO drawings or pix of the boards , just 55 pages of lousy looking schematics that can be hard to follow...
According to that manual R7716 (Got lucky , found it) , it's a 2.1 or 2.2 ohm resistor at 2 watts(?)...
Goes to pin #7 thru R7713 & hooks up to Blue convergence yoke pin #3 , comes out thru pin #1 & from there goes to pin #9 which is the Blue Vertical convergence output...
Short answer to your question is, the IC went bad & took out the resistor...
There are most likely other resistors bad or on the edge that will need to be checked &/or replaced....
How much Electronics/TV repair background/experience do you have ???
Do you have a DVM & know how to use it ???

IF memory serves , there are little tabs on the sides of the connectors that have to be released in order to lift up on the connectors...Not sure how...Unsure...
But to be safe & correct >>>....
Pix of the bridge connectors (Correct term) will be a big help for me to advise you...
Try to get IN-FOCUS , CLEAR , CLOSE-UPS...
THANKS...

Have a GREAT day....Sly.....


Later...Ron.M....Cool....
Veteran & Retired TV technician

(This post was edited by Ron.M on Oct 21, 2011, 6:28 PM)


CNYMark
New User

Oct 21, 2011, 7:31 PM

Post #16 of 25 (9272 views)
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Ron-
Most of my limited electrical experience has been restoring/rebuilding old audio tube amps. Last winter I built a '59 Fender bassman amp from scratch, and built it into a 2x12 Peavey cabinet that I re-covered in period tweed, etc. I've done some Dynaco ST-70s, with new pcbs that I stuffed and soldered myself.I've had no reason to go into tvs, except this one broke....( I replaced it with a 55" Toshiba flat screen, and this one will be in the basement after I repair it...)
I have no problem de-soldering and replacing stuff on a board, but I take my time and great care especially for my lack of hard electronics/circuit knowledge. I have a DMM and can use it....Now I just have to figure out how to add the pictures of the pcb connectors......


CNYMark
New User

Oct 21, 2011, 7:37 PM

Post #17 of 25 (9271 views)
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Great......Trying to find how to add pics, but striking out....when I go to FAQ, it replys:

TV Forums: Permission Denied

Oops! You are not authorized to view that page.


Ron.M
Veteran


Oct 21, 2011, 7:56 PM

Post #18 of 25 (9267 views)
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CNYMark;.....

The Forum Rules & F.A.Q. have been out of whack since before I joined this forum....
There are 2 ways I can think of to post pix here...
One is to upload the pix to either imageshack.com or photobucket.com OR ???.....
Then copy & paste them in your post...
Two is to post a link of the pix & make us work to get them...Wink...
Please let me know if you are familar with imageshack.com or photobucket.com & know how to use them...
IF not , I can help you get the pix to look good in your post & we can see them OK...
There is a "trick" involved with imageshack.com that will give us the desired results...



Later....Ron.M....Cool....
Veteran & Retired TV technician


CNYMark
New User

Oct 21, 2011, 8:13 PM

Post #19 of 25 (9265 views)
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while I was waiting for the pics to upload, I went at it again and was able to pry up the tan side (power, I think...) of the bridge connectors, so I've successfully removed the signal (green) pcb from the case. <br>http://s867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/markCNY/Toshiba%2042H82%20PCB/ <br> <br>Now I've got to figure out how to remove the heat sinks, and unscrew the ICs from that...... <br>

http://s867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/markCNY/Toshiba%2042H82%20PCB/?action=view&current=IMG_0607.jpg


(This post was edited by CNYMark on Oct 21, 2011, 8:21 PM)


Ron.M
Veteran


Oct 21, 2011, 8:35 PM

Post #20 of 25 (9260 views)
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CNYMark;....


STOP the Presses !!!

Lets not go like a bull in a china shop....

Under MOST circumstances you do NOT need to remove the heatsinks....
PLEASE POST a pix of the heatsinks , the ICs on them & the general area around them....


THANKS....Sly....



Later...Ron.M....Cool....

Veteran & Retired TV technician


CNYMark
New User

Oct 21, 2011, 10:30 PM

Post #21 of 25 (9249 views)
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REALLY RON >>>NO BULL
pics added, heat sink and surround.....
one view from top, so you can see that there's no room to unscrew the IC from the heat sink.
looks like they'll come with the ICs when I de-solder them. Then I can change them out, add the thermal grease, screw'em back together, and re-install. While the ICs and heatsinks out I can remove R7716, once I can verify the colors on those bands, and assess the neighbors for values....

http://s867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/markCNY/Toshiba%2042H82%20PCB/?action=view&current=IMG_0612.jpg


Ron.M
Veteran


Oct 21, 2011, 11:17 PM

Post #22 of 25 (9247 views)
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CNYMark;.....

You posted a new post while I was working on this one...
Still applies...

I went back & looked at ALL of your pix....
Toshiba certainly did not make it easy to change the ICs in that model , did they ???
The modules etc in front of the convergence ICs MUST come out to replace the ICs...
Reason is , you have to coat the ICs with heatsink compound , then mount them to the heatsink...
Then , IF you removed the heatsink & installed the ICs without removing the modules in front of the ICs , you would NOT be able to line up 36/44 pins , juggle the heatsink into it's mounting pins without breaking off a few pins from the ICs...
They are very flimsy pins & bend easily....
It's far easier/better to leave the heatsink on the board ...
Remove the bad ICs...
Coat 1 IC with the heatsink compound & install it on the heatsink....
TIP:...
To make it easy to line up the pins....
Make SURE the IC holes on the board are free from solder & resin...
Use a pin/needle to clean the holes from any resin residue...
BEFORE you apply the compound , turn the board over , start at one end of the IC & maneuver the IC till you have all pins in their holes...
Then , while the pins are in their holes , GENTLY bend the IC so that ALL pins are straightened out & lined up...
Test this by reinserting the IC back into the board...
The IC should slide right back in freely...
Bring the IC to the top side & try it for a fit...
IF it goes in freely , coat the IC with compound & install it to the heatsink with the screws...
(1/4 inch hex head or phillips head screws)...
Repeat for the other IC.......
Solder both ICs...

In pix #6 you have a module with #20 written on the top in a red marker...
IF memory serves , that module should just pop up & out...
In pix #9 shows the burnt resistor....
Looks to me like a 1.9 or thereabouts at 1 or 2 watts...
The 2 other resistors in front are the SAME value...
Read those & replace the burnt one with the value of those...


A FYI...The ICs are NOT "plug-in" type , so you don't need to remove the heatsinks....
I see that you already have the board out & the connectors separated...
I do not know if you did it this way or not , but this is the correct way...
In the pix below , you disconnect the connectors by lifting up at the tabs I marked...
Those are a "knife blade" type connectors , so care in handleing them is needed...





BTW:....
ALL EXCELLENT pix....THANK you.....Smile....


Have a GREAT day & weekend...Sly....


Later...Ron.M....Cool....
Veteran & Retired TV technician

(This post was edited by Ron.M on Oct 21, 2011, 11:19 PM)


CNYMark
New User

Oct 22, 2011, 2:51 PM

Post #23 of 25 (8916 views)
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Thanks Ron, I'm being spammed by this forum now, as you can see. Not sure if anyone is in charge. Too bad its so loosely managed. I appreciate your help, but out of here until this is fixed.

Mark


Ron.M
Veteran


Oct 24, 2011, 8:01 PM

Post #24 of 25 (8789 views)
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CNYMark;...


Quote
I'm being spammed by this forum now, as you can see. Not sure if anyone is in charge. Too bad its so loosely managed.

Correction;...
You are being spammed "ON" this forum & NOT "BY" this forum...
You & SEVERAL other threads were HEAVILY spammed by "bots" or "scripts" as they were told to me by Admin....
Admin was busy this weekend (He has a life also) WHEN the Chinese struck , so he got right on it this AM...
They ARE PERMANENTLY BANNED !!!!
YESSSSSSSSSS !!!!...
7,346 , by my count , SPAM posts were removed...
This part of the forum is WELL managed...
IF & WHEN you care to , feel free to post again....
It IS fixed....


Have a GREAT day & week....Sly....


Later...Ron.M....Cool....
Veteran & Retired TV technician

(This post was edited by Ron.M on Oct 24, 2011, 8:18 PM)


WaitWhatUhOH
New User

Nov 5, 2011, 11:29 PM

Post #25 of 25 (8432 views)
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Re: [jts1957] Toshiba 42H82 Convergence Issues [In reply to] Can't Post

Hi guys, I just replaced the convergence chips. However, I had taken a picture of all my connections on my phone. Well I now have a problem. My 3 year old was playing with my phone and magically made it disappear.

Would any of you guys happen to have an image of PD06394 correctly wired up? I tried going by the memory of how the wires were formed and just cant bring myself to power it up. Any and all suggestions would be greatly aprriciate.


Thanks

 
 
 


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