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Crumbtrail TV Forums: TV Equipment: VCR Repair Forum:
Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS.

 

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heviarti
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Jun 17, 2010, 5:17 AM

Post #1 of 98 (7526 views)
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Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. Can't Post

So, I found something locally.... though not one of the pieces of equipment Barry mentioned.

I found an old Heathkit 'battery eliminator' which is a variable to 15 volts DC power source. I got it for hauling it off.

I'm having trouble getting some infolithium batteries to charge. It stands to reason I could just feed 'em 8 volts and charge them forcibly, don't it? Something is telling the charger to shut off *immediately*. I don't want it to. I'm trying to 'burn' the batteries since they've lain idle for a long time.



Barry777
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Jun 20, 2010, 3:41 PM

Post #2 of 98 (7518 views)
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Re: [heviarti] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

Hi Buck,

First, congrats on the TBC cure - very inventive of you, and one that I wasn't familiar with so you just taught me something valuable. Yeah man, some of those battery chargers are a pain in the butt with their overcurrent and protection shutdown circuits. I would measure the current draw on your charging setup, and I'll bet it exceeds the rating on the charger. If your batteries are presenting an apparent short (or very low ohms) to the charger, that means it's trying to supply 8 amps on the 8 volt setting, which is some pretty high current unless it's designed for car batteries. But the phrase "battery eliminator" strongly suggests that it's meant to substitute for batteries directly - and a 60 amp battery eliminator would almost take two strong men to carry.

It might stay operating if you throttle it back to 1 or 2 volts, which would only draw a maximum of 1 or 2 amps. This will take longer to charge the batteries of course, but might be the only solution outside of getting another charger with a higher current rating. Using 1 or 2 volts, you might be able to trickle-charge them overnight. But just to be safe, don't have anything that can burn close to the setup in case things get hot. I have a Pyramid 20 amp battery eliminator that I use to power up these ancient Delco 8 track players with their current-demanding Class A output amplifiers, and the darn power supply beeps and shuts down before it gets even close to 20 amps. I'll turn it off and back on and everything is fine. They can be a pain.

Why not just grab a car cigarette lighter plug, and wire that to the batteries you're charging? Kinda cheesy, but quick. Then if the car fuse blows, you'll know to throw those lithiums away as they are hopelessly depleted and probably shorted. Or heck, you could even tap the voltage from the power supply in a relatively high-wattage stereo receiver since you don't mind playing with stuff like that. At any rate, it sounds like you need more current to charge those batts, or they may be effectively gone.
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Barry Fone - VCR Repair hobbyist and professional FAA Repair Station Avionics Bench Technician (top level). TEST EQUIPMENT: (4) Sencore VC93 VCR Analyzers, (11) Tentel gauges, Sencore VA48 and (2) VA62 Video Analyzers, Sigma Electronics TSG-375 NTSC/SMPTE Video Generator, several VCR Alignment Tapes, plus countless Oscilloscopes, Frequency Counters, Wow and Flutter Meters, Distortion Analyzers, Vectorscope, 136-channel Logic Analyzer, Signature Analyzer . . . . VIDEO GEAR: (6) JVC BR-S822U's, (3) JVC BR-7000 series, (3) JVC BR-S500U, (2) JVC BR-S800U, JVC GR-800U and (2) GR-860U Editing Controllers, Sony FXE-100 Video Switcher/Effects Generator, (5) Time Code Generator/Readers, (1) Sony SLO-1800 (Beta), (2) Alesis ADAT-XT, (1) Sony DXC-1200 TV Camera, Pioneer VP-1000 Laser Disc Player plus many consumer grade Beta and VHS VCR's. Passionate electronics enthusiast since 1973...most anything except computers. Check out my collection at www.barrys8trackrepair.com/MyVideoGear.html


heviarti
User


Jun 21, 2010, 5:50 AM

Post #3 of 98 (7515 views)
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Re: [Barry777] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

  So, you looking for a full frame TBC yet?

The 'battery eliminator' Is a Heathkit BE-5 if you're curious. As near as I can tell it was new in 1957. Voltage gauge reads about half a volt off. Has three or four 10,000 MFD caps in the bottom. Big suckers.

I was mainly asking about the batteries because I didn't know if Infolithium included a microcontroller on the battery side or not. I do know I had 'em both hooked up for three hours and they didn't get even slightly warm, which could be bad. I may have to order a set of batteries for my $10 digital camera score.

Also picked up a working 60" projection tv REALLY cheap. Now If I could just fix my little home theater amp....


Barry777
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Jun 21, 2010, 6:28 AM

Post #4 of 98 (7513 views)
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Re: [heviarti] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

Hi Buck,

I don't imagine I'll need a TBC, as my pro machines ignore all the anti-copy signals, and one does have the TBC board installed. What I do need is an Alesis BRC to interface the time code between my ADAT machines and VCR's - someday. Other than that, I think I pretty much have all the toys I'll need for a long time, and have in fact been throwing stuff out to simplify things a bit. One of my supervisors at work sold me a mint condition Sencore VA-62 Video Analyzer for $100, and I've been cleaning that up and making sure everything works on it. Just needed the pots cleaned, and it's fine. Now I have 2 of them, but still need to replace a tri-state buffer chip in my other one to get the digital meter working again. Not that I really need that function anyway, but I'm just anal about everything working on stuff. I mainly just use them to generate test patterns since I don't do heavy TV work anymore, and I could hook one up to one of the VC93's to extend its capabilities. There I go adding to the bench again, when I just finished getting rid of the excess gear I seldom use.

I like those free projection TV's, I got a 50" and a 47" for free, but had to replace the convergence STK's in both of them. Still not a bad deal for $40 each in parts. The 50" is a Toshiba which still has nice, bright CRT's and was given to me by a guy who only lasted a few months as a repair tech where I work. Not surprising, since the TV was an easy fix. Kinda weird; some of these guys know all this theory but can't fix stuff. The 47" is a Panasonic in which the red tube is getting a bit weak, so I put that in my study room where it won't be used very much. I got into the service menus and cranked up the red just enough, where the picture overloads just a tiny bit on white text, but the color is nicely balanced. Otherwise I'd have a slight greenish cast which would bother me. I'm rough on picture tubes because I like a nice, bright vivid picture. To make things worse, now I have a new LCD TV to compare it to - which I also adjust very bright with strong contrast.

My wife was just diagnosed with asthma, so all my playtime projects are on hold while I install an electronic air cleaner in the ductwork and replace the floor in the main bathroom due to mold. On top of that, they're asking us to work as much OT as possible through the middle of July so they can meet their 6 month revenue goals. I'll get plenty of electronic fun by just showing up for work.

I don't know anything about lithium batteries, so I'm not much help there. 40,000 uF is a nice chunk of filtering, so the Heathkit must have decent current delivery. I have several old 40,000 uF cans from a power supply a friend built for his 40 watt Class A stereo amplifier project - darn things are like 3 inches in diameter by about 6 inches long, and there were 8 of them. I'm convinced I could have started my car with that supply. I took it off is hands, then realized I don't appreciate super-clean sound enough to use 100 pounds of electronics and 3 cubic feet for 40 watts of power. I'd rather have 150 watts of Class B that can fit on top of the TV (my Kenwood KR-9400 receiver).

Cheers Dude!
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Barry Fone - VCR Repair hobbyist and professional FAA Repair Station Avionics Bench Technician (top level). TEST EQUIPMENT: (4) Sencore VC93 VCR Analyzers, (11) Tentel gauges, Sencore VA48 and (2) VA62 Video Analyzers, Sigma Electronics TSG-375 NTSC/SMPTE Video Generator, several VCR Alignment Tapes, plus countless Oscilloscopes, Frequency Counters, Wow and Flutter Meters, Distortion Analyzers, Vectorscope, 136-channel Logic Analyzer, Signature Analyzer . . . . VIDEO GEAR: (6) JVC BR-S822U's, (3) JVC BR-7000 series, (3) JVC BR-S500U, (2) JVC BR-S800U, JVC GR-800U and (2) GR-860U Editing Controllers, Sony FXE-100 Video Switcher/Effects Generator, (5) Time Code Generator/Readers, (1) Sony SLO-1800 (Beta), (2) Alesis ADAT-XT, (1) Sony DXC-1200 TV Camera, Pioneer VP-1000 Laser Disc Player plus many consumer grade Beta and VHS VCR's. Passionate electronics enthusiast since 1973...most anything except computers. Check out my collection at www.barrys8trackrepair.com/MyVideoGear.html

(This post was edited by Barry777 on Jun 21, 2010, 6:30 AM)


heviarti
User


Jun 21, 2010, 2:47 PM

Post #5 of 98 (7510 views)
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Re: [Barry777] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

I use my TBC not for VHS->VHS but for VHS->DVD. if the TBC board in your deck isn't full frame, it won't do the job.

I just saw 'Heathkit' and it was in a junk pile... so it went home with me. Got a Sansui 5000A in the same place. You've got my addy, so keep me in mind if you deep-six anything I can use.

I also got my component tuner in, but it turns out the tuner on that big hitachi is as clean as a mechanical. Never seen a modern TV able to pull down good air signals before. I'd not have even tried, but the beta started getting weak, and the component wasn't in yet.

I got the TV for $100, it's less than ten years old and has been in storage most of it's life. No remote, tho. Still trying to figure out the what and why about a few things on it, but it seems good. How much of a danger is burn-in with these?

Still need a working beta, May have found a videodisc player, and still want a pro deck (Panny AG7500 looks like a possibility) And need to fig out how to fix my Panasonic home theater amp. Think the robot needs aligned. Dvd forum hasn't been any help. I don't think there are techs there.


Barry777
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Jun 22, 2010, 12:02 AM

Post #6 of 98 (7506 views)
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Re: [heviarti] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

Projection TV's are CRT based, so the usual burn-in precautions apply. Perhaps even moreso with PTV's, since a persistent bright green line (for example) will be concentrated on the green CRT, rather than one of three guns in a conventional CRT. My Panasonic moves the video information back and forth ever so slowly so that nothing stays in the same place for long, thereby reducing the chance of burn-in - the movement is imperceptable and probably not very effective since it only spans a few fractions of an inch.

You'll probably need the remote for some of the adjustments, but possily not. To do any service adjustments (such as turning up just the red if your picture has a green cast), you'll definitely need the remote and service manual unless you can find it on a forum somewhere. And if your convergence is off, you may need the remote to adjust that. It's best to place your PTV facing either North or South, so the Earth's magnetic field helps to keep the convergence lined up once it's set. Some PTV's are very sensitive to this. Since there is a human face in most scenes (which contain mostly red and blue), this wears out the red CRT faster, leaving the picture a little green after several years. Turning up the red and blue slightly brings the color back in balance. Of course, you can also simply adjust the tint towards the purple end of its range, but I'm never happy with the results of that. Also, that doesn't do anything for a black and white picture, since the color controls only work on a color picture. You could get an external video processor, which I often use to correct colors and brighten up a dark picture when copying stuff.

I'm able to make transfers between all formats that I have here, so I don't imagine I'll need any more gadgets. I'll never want to transfer commercial movies to DVD for any reason. But I might want to see how good a spiral I can throw with a DVD player next time I see "Disc Error".
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Barry Fone - VCR Repair hobbyist and professional FAA Repair Station Avionics Bench Technician (top level). TEST EQUIPMENT: (4) Sencore VC93 VCR Analyzers, (11) Tentel gauges, Sencore VA48 and (2) VA62 Video Analyzers, Sigma Electronics TSG-375 NTSC/SMPTE Video Generator, several VCR Alignment Tapes, plus countless Oscilloscopes, Frequency Counters, Wow and Flutter Meters, Distortion Analyzers, Vectorscope, 136-channel Logic Analyzer, Signature Analyzer . . . . VIDEO GEAR: (6) JVC BR-S822U's, (3) JVC BR-7000 series, (3) JVC BR-S500U, (2) JVC BR-S800U, JVC GR-800U and (2) GR-860U Editing Controllers, Sony FXE-100 Video Switcher/Effects Generator, (5) Time Code Generator/Readers, (1) Sony SLO-1800 (Beta), (2) Alesis ADAT-XT, (1) Sony DXC-1200 TV Camera, Pioneer VP-1000 Laser Disc Player plus many consumer grade Beta and VHS VCR's. Passionate electronics enthusiast since 1973...most anything except computers. Check out my collection at www.barrys8trackrepair.com/MyVideoGear.html


heviarti
User


Jun 22, 2010, 1:04 AM

Post #7 of 98 (7505 views)
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Re: [Barry777] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

 I was just wondering about burn in because I have an NES I might want to use occasionally... I get a little nuts about Ninja Gaiden and Castlevnia II. I don't know if the Ultravision has video wobble or not. I've also got a bar of color in my TV reception... Not sure how I'm gonna get rid of that. Had it with my other tuners as well, so it's not the TV.

Tell me more about this video processor. Might be useful.

I have an original remote on the way off ebay. There is a great deal of accessibility to functions without the remote. I was quite impressed. I do need to find someone with a manual for my home theater amp/dvd player so I can get it back to work. stupid over-computerized co&!$@*?#+.

I also need to find a seriously uber-mean a/v switch. Something with major I/O. I've got three RCA inputs, two of which are usable, and two tuner inputs but I can only use one 'til I get the remote.

I don't really like to daisy-chain everything. I've got audio feed to my other home theater amp routed through an old Sony tape switch, and all the F connectors run through an Audiovox AVCC-100. I want the AVCC-530. Either way, I need to upgrade my switching matrix.


Barry777
User


Jun 22, 2010, 3:40 AM

Post #8 of 98 (7502 views)
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Re: [heviarti] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

My video processor is a JVC (of course!) JX-SV55. I wouldn't call it a hard core professional unit as it uses RCA and S-Video connectors, but it really comes in handy sometimes. So far I've used it to brighten up a bar gig I played where we had no lights at all, correcting green or purple faces, turning down loud passages so I can have a copy of a movie that doesn't wake up or scare the wife during gunshots or sirens - just turn those parts down then bring it back up. It has this cool joystick for a tint control, plus you can turn the color up or down, sharpen the video, mix in a microphone or other audio source, fade or wipe from one video source to another, etc.

It also generates the color bars and 1 kHz tone you hear at the end of a lot of movies, and a few other cool little things. Has inputs for 2 A/V sources, 2 more audio-only sources PLUS a mic input, outputs for 2 video monitors and a video recorder,headphone jack, and I/O for an external video processor or character generator. You can find them for less than $100 - check it out.

The color bar is probably interference from another RF-producing device. They used to make filter traps that shorted out only that signal, but you kinda need to know the frequency of the culprit. If you're already using a coaxial cable to an outdoor antenna, it's unlikely you'll be able to eliminate the bar. Could be anything from CB or Ham radio interference, a strong AM or FM station, power generators, or basically anything that can create noise in the RF range. Those can be tough to track down. You might try going around the house and unplugging everything one at a time, then seeing if the picture improves. Sometimes household appliances or devices can create interference with an antenna-fed TV. Some of the newer wall wart type power supplies are the fancy switching type, which can wreak havoc with RF.
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Barry Fone - VCR Repair hobbyist and professional FAA Repair Station Avionics Bench Technician (top level). TEST EQUIPMENT: (4) Sencore VC93 VCR Analyzers, (11) Tentel gauges, Sencore VA48 and (2) VA62 Video Analyzers, Sigma Electronics TSG-375 NTSC/SMPTE Video Generator, several VCR Alignment Tapes, plus countless Oscilloscopes, Frequency Counters, Wow and Flutter Meters, Distortion Analyzers, Vectorscope, 136-channel Logic Analyzer, Signature Analyzer . . . . VIDEO GEAR: (6) JVC BR-S822U's, (3) JVC BR-7000 series, (3) JVC BR-S500U, (2) JVC BR-S800U, JVC GR-800U and (2) GR-860U Editing Controllers, Sony FXE-100 Video Switcher/Effects Generator, (5) Time Code Generator/Readers, (1) Sony SLO-1800 (Beta), (2) Alesis ADAT-XT, (1) Sony DXC-1200 TV Camera, Pioneer VP-1000 Laser Disc Player plus many consumer grade Beta and VHS VCR's. Passionate electronics enthusiast since 1973...most anything except computers. Check out my collection at www.barrys8trackrepair.com/MyVideoGear.html

(This post was edited by Barry777 on Jun 22, 2010, 3:49 AM)


heviarti
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Jun 22, 2010, 4:57 AM

Post #9 of 98 (7499 views)
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Re: [Barry777] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

 I don't know if it's in house interference, because it's only channel 35.

I'll look up that device. What's the basis of your preference for JVC? I've always liked Hitachi Mitsubishi and Sony.

Turns out the little mitsubishi VCR I've got is kind of a bad mofo. I'm trying to find a user manual for it so I can use some of the cooler features. It's an HS-U781. It apparently has an auto set clock feature that uses the tv antenna for signal, remote control signal pass thru and some other stuff. The remote has a PIP button... which makes me wonder. I just plugged it into my avcc... but no auto time set yet.

I did find an '822... See if I can get it. I'd like to find a Hitachi pro deck. I love Hitachi's hardware. I'm also going to look up the Mitsubishi HS-795U. It's apparently my VCR's bigger brother.


Barry777
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Jun 22, 2010, 12:30 PM

Post #10 of 98 (7495 views)
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Re: [heviarti] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

Here's where an RF generator would come in handy, as you could slowly sweep throughout its range and see if you can reproduce a similar color bar - then you would know exactly at which frequency the interference is occurring, and design an LC network to shunt it out at the antenna terminals. Yes, the interference would generally be at one predominant frequency in most cases.

One thing you can try: Make a wire loop about 8 inches in diameter which is the UHF range, and substitute that in place of the outdoor antenna. If the interference disappears, you know it's probably somewhere outside the house. If it persists, it's probably coming from inside the house. UHF, being in a higher frequency range than VHF, would be more susceptable to any kind of interference. It could even be a building close by reflecting it from something else far away. At any rate, it's possible that nothing will help. Also you can try different types of homemade antennas, or a CB antenna, VHF, rabbit ears, a long wire, a moistened fingertip, etc. If you find something that eliminates the bar while still letting the signal through strong enough, you can use that for channel 35 and build a switch into the antenna system.

One vertical color bar suggests one very specific and very high frequency, whereas a horizontal bar would generally be something in the audio range. A wide bar that slowly moves up or down is usually some form of AC hum, which could be aging filter caps on any TV more than 10 years old, or the cumulative effects of many AC devices operating close by. Or nearby power lines, cell phone tower, etc. Keep in mind that what you're seeing could be a harmonic of the actual offending frequency, which makes pretty much anything suspect.

My passion for JVC is because they invented the VHS format ("Vertical Helical Scan", later changed to "Video Home System" for the idiot consumer masses), have very solid designs and the most peripheral accessories for their machines. Also, their high-end pro machines are expandable with optional TBC boards (a 3-board option), Time Code generator/reader boards, RS-422 control boards and digital noise reduction boards. The 822 uses balanced XLR connectors for all stereo audio, so you'll need to buy or make some adaptor cables, and all professional video equipment uses BNC connectors for the video signal.

I think JVC's are also best for easy serviceability, with removeable access panels for cleaning the heads and mechanism, and almost all boards are easily pulled out by removing one screw and swinging aside a retainer bar. They were designed for the busy professional who needed to clean heads every day, or swap out a board in, literally, less than 60 seconds. Most routine electronic adjustments are controlled in the software, and accessed from menus available both on-screen and using readout codes on the front panel. JVC is no-hassle performance, and lots of it.

I'm a huge fan of Sony for TV's, and went with Sony without hesitation for our first LCD TV. Sony is the absolute best quality for most electronic stuff, but I find their VCR designs a bit unstable. Heck, look how complicated they made their video format, and it's a real pain to align albeit better picture quality. Betamax servicing is an art in which the service manual is merely a starting point to get you going in the right direction. Mitsubishi is also great stuff, but they're more of a board-changeout situation on their TV's, with their boards costing several hundred dollars. Horrible service literature access - they don't like other people repairing their stuff. Hitachi is another great brand - no complaints about them at all.

I'm a firm believer in using professional grade equipment whenever possible, as this stuff is designed for continuous heavy use and generally has the tightest specs. I use professional HP office printers - and never, ever have a paper jam or inconsistent print quality. The way I figure it, the inventor of a technology has had the most practice building and perfecting it in most cases, and I have too much other stuff to do to spend my time tweaking and babysitting marginal equipment that was built to stay within a consumer budget. I spend money to save time, as opposed to most other folks. You can always make more money.
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Barry Fone - VCR Repair hobbyist and professional FAA Repair Station Avionics Bench Technician (top level). TEST EQUIPMENT: (4) Sencore VC93 VCR Analyzers, (11) Tentel gauges, Sencore VA48 and (2) VA62 Video Analyzers, Sigma Electronics TSG-375 NTSC/SMPTE Video Generator, several VCR Alignment Tapes, plus countless Oscilloscopes, Frequency Counters, Wow and Flutter Meters, Distortion Analyzers, Vectorscope, 136-channel Logic Analyzer, Signature Analyzer . . . . VIDEO GEAR: (6) JVC BR-S822U's, (3) JVC BR-7000 series, (3) JVC BR-S500U, (2) JVC BR-S800U, JVC GR-800U and (2) GR-860U Editing Controllers, Sony FXE-100 Video Switcher/Effects Generator, (5) Time Code Generator/Readers, (1) Sony SLO-1800 (Beta), (2) Alesis ADAT-XT, (1) Sony DXC-1200 TV Camera, Pioneer VP-1000 Laser Disc Player plus many consumer grade Beta and VHS VCR's. Passionate electronics enthusiast since 1973...most anything except computers. Check out my collection at www.barrys8trackrepair.com/MyVideoGear.html

(This post was edited by Barry777 on Jun 22, 2010, 1:02 PM)


heviarti
User


Jun 22, 2010, 3:15 PM

Post #11 of 98 (7489 views)
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Post deleted by heviarti [In reply to]

 


jts1957
Veteran


Jun 22, 2010, 6:43 PM

Post #12 of 98 (7486 views)
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Re: [heviarti] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

Using "Invisible Type" again?Crazy


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Location: Far, Far Away


Barry777
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Jun 23, 2010, 12:36 AM

Post #13 of 98 (7480 views)
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Re: [jts1957] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

Got lucky this morning, someone threw out 3 VCR's including a Mitsubishi HS-U446 *with remote*, and 2 apparently complete Dish Network systems which I ignored. Of course, I was mainly interested in the Mitsu. I took a peek in the tape door while still at work and saw some horrible sticky, greasy fingerprints on the head drum. "Oh boy, here we go" I thought to myself. "Did he take sandpaper to the heads?" When I got home, I popped in a tape after cleaning the drum and watched it struggle to go into Play mode. Got a lot of spastic flashing with a picture occasionally creeping in once in a while.

I could press a finger against the head drum to slow it down a bit, then the picture would stay and looked pretty decent. So I thought the drum servo wasn't regulating the drum speed. As this is a newer design with nothing but a few VLSI processor chips, I got ready to chuck it when BINGO, I saw the power supply electrolytic lying on the board, with its broken off terminals still in the board. Man, these newer designs are very much snap-together, and it took no more than 10 minutes to have the mechanism and board completely out of the unit. Soldered in a new cap, snapped it back together, and this puppy works NICE. Great sound, great picture and a nice strong tuner.

I have no idea which fool messed with this, but thankfully he didn't destroy it beyond repair. It looks like a Cracker Jack toy inside, but performs wonderfully. The other 2 VCR's are a 3 pound Orion and an older Sharp with most of the controls and features on the front panel, so the lack of a remote won't bother me. I only grabbed the Orion because I was running a few minutes late, and it was quicker to grab the stack than to sort out the wires to separate them. I'll try it out real quick, but I'm sure it's dumpster fodder. UPDATE: Well, the Orion works just fine without needing even a cleaning. So what do I do with a perfectly working mono piece of junk? The Sharp is also not stereo or Hi-Fi, so that went to the dumpster without even plugging it in - a shame as it's in very nice cosmetic condition. But - better to throw it out now than after I fixed it!
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Barry Fone - VCR Repair hobbyist and professional FAA Repair Station Avionics Bench Technician (top level). TEST EQUIPMENT: (4) Sencore VC93 VCR Analyzers, (11) Tentel gauges, Sencore VA48 and (2) VA62 Video Analyzers, Sigma Electronics TSG-375 NTSC/SMPTE Video Generator, several VCR Alignment Tapes, plus countless Oscilloscopes, Frequency Counters, Wow and Flutter Meters, Distortion Analyzers, Vectorscope, 136-channel Logic Analyzer, Signature Analyzer . . . . VIDEO GEAR: (6) JVC BR-S822U's, (3) JVC BR-7000 series, (3) JVC BR-S500U, (2) JVC BR-S800U, JVC GR-800U and (2) GR-860U Editing Controllers, Sony FXE-100 Video Switcher/Effects Generator, (5) Time Code Generator/Readers, (1) Sony SLO-1800 (Beta), (2) Alesis ADAT-XT, (1) Sony DXC-1200 TV Camera, Pioneer VP-1000 Laser Disc Player plus many consumer grade Beta and VHS VCR's. Passionate electronics enthusiast since 1973...most anything except computers. Check out my collection at www.barrys8trackrepair.com/MyVideoGear.html

(This post was edited by Barry777 on Jun 23, 2010, 2:21 AM)


heviarti
User


Jun 23, 2010, 4:17 AM

Post #14 of 98 (7473 views)
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Re: [Barry777] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

wow I've had a fight with the forum today. Lost my post four frickin' times. kind of ticks me off.

I don't know much about an RF generator. guess I need to do some research. what's an LC network?

I had an indoor antenna previously. It's performance sucked gigantic monkey &!$@#. Moving any cabling or equipment threw it all off. If I had the bar then I would have been entirely unable to distinguish it. The indoor antenna had a gesachstehagen on it with a dial that could improve reception . Each channel liked a different setting. If I knew what the gesachstehagen was called I'd get a component gesachstehagen to put inline with my antenna. I have been thinking about installing a UHF only Yagi to see if I can deal with the ghosting. I don't know what it might be reflecting off of... there's nothing here. The bar is vertical, striated, and multicolored.

I can see why you'd like to go with the inventor of a format for the machine. The timecode generator interests me, but I don't care about the TBC. I got me one of Them. I'm big on overkill industrial equipment myself. I also like things designed to work on... like the barn door boards on that panasonic. Aren't all the pro units designed for easy service?

Sony's video format is complicated? I honestly wish electroluminescent technology would get to be more prevalent. I did try my sony tuner, and have it hooked up. Amazingly it's not as clean as the one in the Hitachi. Guess I need a mechanical tuner.

I've mostly fixed my SA-HT670. It refused to play dvds... so I cleaned the lens like I did last time it did that. Guess I need to find a better method than alcohol and Q-tips, because I'm getting blocky video and zappy audio. Maybe I should use the rye whiskey like I did the first time, rather than the 90% isopropyl I used this time. It:s still a little wonky on stations four and five.

Sure wish I could find one of these dvd/player amp dealies made by hitachi or mitsubishi.... but every time I search ebay for home theater all I get are projectors.[/email]


Barry777
User


Jun 23, 2010, 12:35 PM

Post #15 of 98 (7467 views)
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Re: [heviarti] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

RF = Radio Frequency, as opposed to AF (Audio Frequency). Anything higher than the audio range of roughly 20 Hz to 20 kHz is considered RF, including TV channel carriers. An RF generator would allow you to broadcast over the air to your TV for troubleshooting purposes. You can do a Google search for VHF and UHF channel frequency allocations to determine the frequency range you would need in an RF generator. Sounds like you were using a pair of rabbit ears which are designed for VHF channels (2 through 13), and won't work very well for UHF (14 through 83). The 8 inch round loop (if it has one) is the one you use for UHF, and you have to pay attention to which wires go to which terminals on your TV. Usually, the lighter colored wires are for UHF. If your TV only has one F connector for the antenna input, that presents a potential problem since your UHF and VHF antennas would need to be connected together, thereby partially shorting each other out. Another area in which performnce is sacrificed for customer convenience.

An LC network is a combination of a coil and capacitor (connected either in series, parallel or other arrangements) which resonates at one certain frequency. This frequency is determined by a somewhat complicated math formula that I won't go into right now. But depending on how it's connected into the circuit, an LC network will either allow only those frequencies to pass through, or will only block (short out) those frequencies. RC networks (resistor and capacitor) are also used, and are cheaper since resistors are cheaper than coils.

To get a rough idea of the influence of these networks, note that your body has capacitance. If you tightly grab your video signal cable, you'll probably notice a slight change on the screen - this is your body's capacitance affecting the signal. The effect is more pronounced if you don't use a shielded cable for the video as an experiment, as the shielding blocks the interference. Resonant networks are used everywhere in electronics, and it's very helpful to study a little about them.

A quick note on the added complication of the Beta format: Whereas a VHS machine has 2 adjustable guide posts, a Beta machine has 7 or more (not even counting the A/C head adjustments), and they are all extremely critical. Also, some higher-end Betas has a capstan tilt adjustment, which is 3 separate adjustments. Even the back tension adjustment on a Beta machine must be within a 5 g/cm window and is just as critical as the guide adjustments, whereas it can be WAY off on a VHS machine and still work fine as long as the tension is "high enough". Since I'm not an experieced Beta guy, it took me about 3 hours to mechanically align my SLO-1800 using the service manual (which only gets you startedin the right direction), then another 2 hours after I used it for a few weeks and let everything "settle in". Electronically, they don't appear more complicated - but have a few major differences. On the other hand, it took all of 2 minutes to realign that Mitsibishi VHS unit yesterday, after I played with the guide post adjustments before I found the broken capacitor.

On that 822 you're thinking about, you might want to consider making sure it displays a full picture since your budget is limited. A quick translation of eBay seller terminology: "Untested" means "tested and doesn't work". C'mon, who's going to not test something, knowing they can get more money if it's known to work? It's worth the extra money, since you'll also pay $50 or more on shipping alone - might as well make sure you're getting a unit that has good heads, or the whole thing is a parts unit.


Okay, time to get to work and get paid for this.
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Barry Fone - VCR Repair hobbyist and professional FAA Repair Station Avionics Bench Technician (top level). TEST EQUIPMENT: (4) Sencore VC93 VCR Analyzers, (11) Tentel gauges, Sencore VA48 and (2) VA62 Video Analyzers, Sigma Electronics TSG-375 NTSC/SMPTE Video Generator, several VCR Alignment Tapes, plus countless Oscilloscopes, Frequency Counters, Wow and Flutter Meters, Distortion Analyzers, Vectorscope, 136-channel Logic Analyzer, Signature Analyzer . . . . VIDEO GEAR: (6) JVC BR-S822U's, (3) JVC BR-7000 series, (3) JVC BR-S500U, (2) JVC BR-S800U, JVC GR-800U and (2) GR-860U Editing Controllers, Sony FXE-100 Video Switcher/Effects Generator, (5) Time Code Generator/Readers, (1) Sony SLO-1800 (Beta), (2) Alesis ADAT-XT, (1) Sony DXC-1200 TV Camera, Pioneer VP-1000 Laser Disc Player plus many consumer grade Beta and VHS VCR's. Passionate electronics enthusiast since 1973...most anything except computers. Check out my collection at www.barrys8trackrepair.com/MyVideoGear.html

(This post was edited by Barry777 on Jun 23, 2010, 1:05 PM)


heviarti
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Jun 23, 2010, 6:40 PM

Post #16 of 98 (7465 views)
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Re: [Barry777] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

  The indoor antenna I was using was quite a marvel. It has three leads coming from it: UHF, VHF, and some type of lead for AM radio. I had it hooked to my Panasonic which has both an F connector and studs for the UHF forks. The TV only had an F, and I ran the out of the VCR to that.

Now I have one of those adapter dealies, but it's hooked to the component tuner, and I'm splitting the antenna with my Audiovox AVCC-100 which has two tv outputs.

What I want to do is install a UHF Yagi and a VHF only for digital, and use a band mixer, because the hole in my wall is only big enough for one cable.

My outdoor antenna is one I grabbed from an aluminum pile.

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heviarti
User


Jun 24, 2010, 6:31 AM

Post #17 of 98 (7460 views)
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Re: [heviarti] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

  I finally got my remote programmed.... that is to say the tv function on my mitsubishi remote now works. I also rigged the VCR for a second output via RF, so I can feed video directly to the TV minus the TBC and VTR for line levelling. After fixing my big amp, I'm now fighting with something that may or may not be possible. I'm trying to figure out how I'm intended to pass surround sound signals from components to the amp. The player in the amp is codec-light and somewhat lame. And now the number five position isn't 100%. I don't think my alignment job was perfect. Pretty good for being without a manual, but not perfect.

I do have a filter of some type with F connectors on it... but it may be a pay-channel filter. Not sure.


Barry777
User


Jun 24, 2010, 12:31 PM

Post #18 of 98 (7457 views)
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Re: [heviarti] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

Congrats on fixing the big amp, looks like you accomplished quite a bit. No major breakthroughs for me last night, but I did replace the Panasonic VCR we use mainly as a TV tuner, VCR and DVD interface for our makeshift, poor man's LCD TV we watch at our computer desks. Replaced it with that Mitsubishi I picked out of the trash a few days ago, which is a great performer all around. Also started hooking back up the scores of cables between our computers, printers and all they communicate with. Trimmed down the appearance of my desk by removing one of the computers and monitors, leaving only 3 matching 20" LCD's on my desk, and giving me more freedom to work at the desk and climb back there when necessary to hook up more crap.

And finally replaced that lame 1/8" mini-phone jack on my computer speakers with real RCA jacks which won't go intermittent every time I light a cigarette. And OH YES - cleaned the DVD player lens to restore its operation. This one, curiously, has 2 lenses which explains why cleaning it didn't work last time. I only expected one lens, and only cleaned the front one that I could see on my tiptoes with the player still connected to the system. Now all is well, and I even showed the wife how to use the VCR remote to get the TV channels back after I've been watching a DVD the night before. You're right man, that Mitsubishi is one fine machine despite its cheap construction - I was amazed at the picture and sound quality, and the effectiveness of the auto-tracking function. And holy smokes, the fastest rewind I have EVER seen - geez Louise!

Next major project: Installing a Honeywell F300 Electronic Air Cleaner in the duct system to help the wife's asthma. Can't do the $470 + shipping this paycheck, so will set half aside and buy it next check. Installed at least a hundred of these when I was in the HVAC trade, and saw a cool demonstration of these at one place I worked. They had a small (8 square inches) box with a clear front, a tiny electronic sample of the cleaner hooked up inside, and a small hole you could blow cigarette smoke into. Fill it with smoke, hit the button to activate it - and that smoke is instantly GONE. Unbelieveable! Can't wait to have one of these in my house zapping away the bad stuff.

Had a dream last night that I was in a band playing in a small town, and the club owner was wanting to pay us in horse manure. That should get the workday off to a humorous start this morning. That even beats the time we each got like 4 dollars, the drummer's drums were all a different color, and he was using me as a reference to get his tempo. Ummm - no dude, the drummer sets the tempo. I'm too embarassed to even mention the times we used either a guitar amp or stereo receiver as a vocal monitor
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Barry Fone - VCR Repair hobbyist and professional FAA Repair Station Avionics Bench Technician (top level). TEST EQUIPMENT: (4) Sencore VC93 VCR Analyzers, (11) Tentel gauges, Sencore VA48 and (2) VA62 Video Analyzers, Sigma Electronics TSG-375 NTSC/SMPTE Video Generator, several VCR Alignment Tapes, plus countless Oscilloscopes, Frequency Counters, Wow and Flutter Meters, Distortion Analyzers, Vectorscope, 136-channel Logic Analyzer, Signature Analyzer . . . . VIDEO GEAR: (6) JVC BR-S822U's, (3) JVC BR-7000 series, (3) JVC BR-S500U, (2) JVC BR-S800U, JVC GR-800U and (2) GR-860U Editing Controllers, Sony FXE-100 Video Switcher/Effects Generator, (5) Time Code Generator/Readers, (1) Sony SLO-1800 (Beta), (2) Alesis ADAT-XT, (1) Sony DXC-1200 TV Camera, Pioneer VP-1000 Laser Disc Player plus many consumer grade Beta and VHS VCR's. Passionate electronics enthusiast since 1973...most anything except computers. Check out my collection at www.barrys8trackrepair.com/MyVideoGear.html

(This post was edited by Barry777 on Jun 24, 2010, 1:03 PM)


heviarti
User


Jun 24, 2010, 7:37 PM

Post #19 of 98 (7451 views)
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Re: [Barry777] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

 It's not the kenwood I fixed just to be clear, it's my panasonic. I need a solder sucker and a decent soldering iron to make a try at it. I seem to have a great deal of trouble finding an iron that doesn't have cold spots on the tip. If I remember right the 448 is the pick of the litter in the ones that start with '4'. Those vcrs have some interesting features if you have the remote... like an OSD with a tape gauge. If you want to see something cool find yourself one that begins with '7'. There's some kind of vtr A vtr b control system, and some type of AV network function that transfers IR signals thru the wire connection from the tv to the vcr. The 'Perfect Tape' system sets up optimum settings by detected tape quality... and my 781 is SVHS. There's also the auto clock set feature.... which I haven't figured out how to work yet... It may rely on a now non-existant analog signal. It also has provisions to control a satellite receiver. The remote has PIP and PIP source buttons... no idea how to get that to work either. There are also Audio and Video functions that can change settings on the fly. I have no clue what the Q.V. button does. Very feature rich, just useless without the manual.... which I don't have. Can't download it. Buggers.

Missed that 822... for some reason my watch list automagically stopped notifying me. Very angry. Need to grab someone at Ebay by the stacking swivel.

What instrument do you play? Search YouTube for 'Tainted Donuts' and you'll hear a piece of music that follows the Bass... or synthesized Bass (not sure) instead of the drums.

My coax filter that I found in my junk drawer is marked 'Arcom® double density® MNE-M 095'

Code



(This post was edited by heviarti on Jun 24, 2010, 8:27 PM)


Barry777
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Jun 25, 2010, 3:03 AM

Post #20 of 98 (7445 views)
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Re: [heviarti] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

You need to keep your soldering iron constantly cleaned and tinned to eliminate the cold spots. If it's not shiny like a mirror on the entire tip surface when it's operating, you're not keeping it clean enough. Wipe that sucker on a wet sponge after every single joint, and always keep it covered with fresh solder. When it starts to get tiny pits, file it off to make it smooth again. Some techs install a high-current diode with a switch bypass in series with the iron to keep it only at half-temperature, then simply flip the switch to override the diode when you're ready to solder. Running it at full heat for long periods (especially when not actually soldering) shortens its life. I've used everything from cheap Radio Shack irons to the $150 Weller station I have now - and I have never had a problem with the tip not being hot enough, as long as it's 30 watts or more and I wasn't trying to solder large things like shield covers, etc. The importance of keeping it cleaned and tinned can't be stressed enough.

It will eventually tarnish from the heat, and you'll have to scrape it with a razor blade to expose fresh copper - then immediately run fresh solder over it to make it look silvery and shiny. It's common to take a flat mill file to it to reshape the tip to your liking when it begins to corrode. Maintaining and customizing your iron tip is a continuous duty when doing electronic work. The industrial grade irons (normally part of a station with a separete power supply) only require frequent wiping; they are made of a metal that doesn't corrode for years of normal hobbyist use. Radio Shack does have a GREAT solder sucker, a vacuum bulb attached to an iron with a hollow tip. Simply squeeze the bulb, put the iron over the connection, let it melt, then suddenly release the bulb to suck up the solder. Very neat and clean. ALWAYS blow out the solder from the bulb after every single operartion, or you'll end up splattering molten solder all over your work. Good solder braid is also very good - not plain braid from shielded cable, but actual desoldering braid that has a light coating of some weird white substance. With practice, you can drag that braid a good 8 inches under the tip of the iron, continuously sucking up solder and cleaning it right up in one sweeping motion. Then clean off the old flux with alhohol and a stiff nylon brush - it will look like it was never soldered to begin with, and will adhere very nicely to fresh solder.

On the music front, I've played lead guitar, bass, drums, keyboards, sung and written music (mostly orchestra scores but some rock, pop and country too) professionally here and there. I did a brief stint as Robert Bacon's bass player (actor Kevin Bacon's cousin) in Butler, MO, and have done a little work with Billy Peek (formerly Rod Stewart's guitarist on "Hot Legs" and during his blues phase) in St. Louis, my original home town. No, I never played with Rod Stewart - I wish! Just his ex-guitarist. Also messed around with a few St. Louis groups who had albums out in the 70's, but never went beyond St. Louis - Bob Kuban ("The Cheater" was his big hit) and Pavlov's Dog (their "hit" was called "Julia"). I put my own CD on the market back in April 2006, and you can hear and download my music on any major download site (iTunes, Rhapsody, etc.). If you'd like to hear some free samples, just Google "Songs of Love, Longing and Passion" and pick from the few results that appear at the top. I don't want to put my full name in the forum, so I put the album title. I did everything on the CD including the engineering and production; no one else was used.
I'll be firing my websites back up in a few days, and you can hear my entire CD for free there. I'll post the web address when it's back up and running. You can also get an idea of the services I offer, pictures of where I work at my day job and a bunch of other assorted crap. The entire websites have been complete for years, just need to fire it up again.

Cheers!
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Barry Fone - VCR Repair hobbyist and professional FAA Repair Station Avionics Bench Technician (top level). TEST EQUIPMENT: (4) Sencore VC93 VCR Analyzers, (11) Tentel gauges, Sencore VA48 and (2) VA62 Video Analyzers, Sigma Electronics TSG-375 NTSC/SMPTE Video Generator, several VCR Alignment Tapes, plus countless Oscilloscopes, Frequency Counters, Wow and Flutter Meters, Distortion Analyzers, Vectorscope, 136-channel Logic Analyzer, Signature Analyzer . . . . VIDEO GEAR: (6) JVC BR-S822U's, (3) JVC BR-7000 series, (3) JVC BR-S500U, (2) JVC BR-S800U, JVC GR-800U and (2) GR-860U Editing Controllers, Sony FXE-100 Video Switcher/Effects Generator, (5) Time Code Generator/Readers, (1) Sony SLO-1800 (Beta), (2) Alesis ADAT-XT, (1) Sony DXC-1200 TV Camera, Pioneer VP-1000 Laser Disc Player plus many consumer grade Beta and VHS VCR's. Passionate electronics enthusiast since 1973...most anything except computers. Check out my collection at www.barrys8trackrepair.com/MyVideoGear.html


heviarti
User


Jun 25, 2010, 3:56 AM

Post #21 of 98 (7443 views)
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Re: [Barry777] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

  Looks like I get to throw away the Emerson DVD player I bought at a garage sale... my first dvd player. Someone had hacked it back to life when I bought it in '01. I patched the cord again tonite and cleaned the lens... hit the power button, the leds blinked five times and it died. It was going to get an easy retirement as a component CD player... :(

I lived in Joplin for a while. Crazy place. I wish I knew what happened to Tom and Wendell... or Sammie the bit...excuse me... young lady that stole my car

Shakkazombie is kinda fun, huh?

I collect odd music, btw.

Used a weller station. I filed, sanded, scraped, and tinned till I was blue in the face, and could only ever get one half of one side to melt solder. I also once soldered a leaking bucket with a piece of hot rebar and a tire weight.

I always preferred the plunger style suckers. Of course those are the only kind I've ever seen.

I'm off to see if I can search out some info on what these RCA ports marked 'coaxial' are about. They don't seem to be RF.

side note: Sierra Nevada beer: not so great. Sierra Nevada mustards: heavenly.


Barry777
User


Jun 25, 2010, 4:18 AM

Post #22 of 98 (7441 views)
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Re: [heviarti] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

There's this old witch doctor, probably 113 years old by now. He resides deep in the villages of South Africa, and once every 37 years he gets mad and puts and "anti-soldering" curse on one very unlucky American. So if you take the number of years you've been soldering and subtract that from 37, you'll know how many more years of practice you need before he inflicts the curse on the next guy.

I think the coaxial jack is a pure digital signal before optical took over, but not sure.

Plungers are fine, just cumbersome since you can't get the iron tip and the sucker in exactly the same place. They make a nice clean hole too, but tend to throw little bits of solder around because of the sudden nature of their operation - plus they need to be taken apart and cleaned periodically. I threw out my Sodapullits when I got used to the iron/vacuum bulb arrangement. At work we use these $1000 suckers that use the house air, and they don't work quite as well as the bulbs either. After years of scoffing the wick, it's about all I use there now - less danger of damaging the tiny pads on multilayer surface mount boards.
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Barry Fone - VCR Repair hobbyist and professional FAA Repair Station Avionics Bench Technician (top level). TEST EQUIPMENT: (4) Sencore VC93 VCR Analyzers, (11) Tentel gauges, Sencore VA48 and (2) VA62 Video Analyzers, Sigma Electronics TSG-375 NTSC/SMPTE Video Generator, several VCR Alignment Tapes, plus countless Oscilloscopes, Frequency Counters, Wow and Flutter Meters, Distortion Analyzers, Vectorscope, 136-channel Logic Analyzer, Signature Analyzer . . . . VIDEO GEAR: (6) JVC BR-S822U's, (3) JVC BR-7000 series, (3) JVC BR-S500U, (2) JVC BR-S800U, JVC GR-800U and (2) GR-860U Editing Controllers, Sony FXE-100 Video Switcher/Effects Generator, (5) Time Code Generator/Readers, (1) Sony SLO-1800 (Beta), (2) Alesis ADAT-XT, (1) Sony DXC-1200 TV Camera, Pioneer VP-1000 Laser Disc Player plus many consumer grade Beta and VHS VCR's. Passionate electronics enthusiast since 1973...most anything except computers. Check out my collection at www.barrys8trackrepair.com/MyVideoGear.html

(This post was edited by Barry777 on Jun 25, 2010, 4:42 AM)


heviarti
User


Jun 25, 2010, 10:03 PM

Post #23 of 98 (7433 views)
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Re: [Barry777] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

I guess I'm boned then... I'm not yet 30 and started using an iron less than ten years back ;)

In other news my factory remote showed up today, but exhibits some wierdness. all the functions I'm worried about work, but none of the everyday functions work. I took it apart and cleaned it with alcohol but that didn't help. Odd that half would work and half wouldn't... and everything lights up. I even did the phone test.


Barry777
User


Jun 26, 2010, 2:08 AM

Post #24 of 98 (7429 views)
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Re: [heviarti] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

It sounds like half the remote circuitry has failed, but you might try pressing some of the common function buttons really hard, and moving your finger around while you have it pressed. If you get any response at all, you may need a special remote repair fluid that consists of conductive "paint" which will restore the conductivity of the soft graphite-looking pads. It costs around $20 and is available at www.studiosoundelectronics.com Also, look for any tiny cracks in the board. If you have any freeze spray, this will make the crack more visible. If you had a scope, you could point the remote at a photodiode and see if it's radiating a signal.

My website is back up, but I plan to make some changes - especially adding more about VCR's. You can check it out (and hear my music) at www.Barrys8TrackRepair.com It's not uncommon to have a few little problems with the site when you re-publish it after being shut down, but I'll get any bugs fixed as I have time. Right now they're asking us to work as much OT as possible to meet their 6-month goals - but they can't work technicians 7 days without a 24 hour rest period per FAA regulations. Production and shipping are working Sunday - HA! Maybe Sunday I'll take pictures of ALL my VCR equipment and put it on the site.
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Barry Fone - VCR Repair hobbyist and professional FAA Repair Station Avionics Bench Technician (top level). TEST EQUIPMENT: (4) Sencore VC93 VCR Analyzers, (11) Tentel gauges, Sencore VA48 and (2) VA62 Video Analyzers, Sigma Electronics TSG-375 NTSC/SMPTE Video Generator, several VCR Alignment Tapes, plus countless Oscilloscopes, Frequency Counters, Wow and Flutter Meters, Distortion Analyzers, Vectorscope, 136-channel Logic Analyzer, Signature Analyzer . . . . VIDEO GEAR: (6) JVC BR-S822U's, (3) JVC BR-7000 series, (3) JVC BR-S500U, (2) JVC BR-S800U, JVC GR-800U and (2) GR-860U Editing Controllers, Sony FXE-100 Video Switcher/Effects Generator, (5) Time Code Generator/Readers, (1) Sony SLO-1800 (Beta), (2) Alesis ADAT-XT, (1) Sony DXC-1200 TV Camera, Pioneer VP-1000 Laser Disc Player plus many consumer grade Beta and VHS VCR's. Passionate electronics enthusiast since 1973...most anything except computers. Check out my collection at www.barrys8trackrepair.com/MyVideoGear.html


heviarti
User


Jun 26, 2010, 5:09 AM

Post #25 of 98 (7426 views)
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Re: [Barry777] Kinda OT, one for Barry or JTS. [In reply to] Can't Post

I don't need a scope to tell if I have output from the IR emitter. I'll tell you another junkyard trick: Set your cell phone to camera, look at the remote thru the viewfinder and hit a button. It'll light up on the screen if it's good. You can also use a remote as a flashlight with night vision. None of the everyday functions work with any amount of pressure or rub, but all the special functions are good.

I doubt the board is cracked because there are LEDs under the keypad, volume and channel selectors that light when the 'light' button is pressed. That tells me power is there. I don't know what a wore out pad looks like, but I don't think this is it.

There is a sliding selector I need to check.... Never seen a failure like this before.

I may need to talk eight track with you. The belt on the player in my Delmonico has turned into goo, and the one on the phonograph slips, and has to be let to heat for some time before it pulls a reliable speed. Also my casette adapter has quit, but I can still get it to take input from a cd to casette adapter (which is hooked to an mp3 player..)

I'll take a look at the site, but my browser may lose some of the content.

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