Jun 24, 2009, 4:19 AM
Post #1 of 2
My g/f owns the Philips 55Ē rear projection TV 55P916. Had it about 9 years. I started noticing the bluish haze/halo around 2 years ago. She didnít want me messing with it, but I figured it was time since I had time.
How to - crt coolant change and advanced convergence
Iím writing this to help anyone that might be trying this. I apologize for the length and not knowing the names of wires, connectors etc. I didn't know how to post the pics as attachments.
Iíve read 3 ways to change the coolant.
1. Tip the TV where the drain plugs on the front or back of the lens are facing up. Suck the coolant out with a syringe or baster enough to tip it back where the lens is facing up. Then remove the lens cover, clean, seal, tip again and fill fluid through drain hole. Do that for all 3.
2. Take the crt out enough to be safer from coolant spilling on the boards. Not sure if you still have to disconnected anything. Probably a few wires. But I donít think you are going to be able to get it out very far without disconnecting much. If you are going to remove it this far you may as well take it out all the way.
3. Remove the entire crt from the tv and clean and change fluid elsewhere.
I did # 3. There might be other methods as to what to disconnect but I tried this.
The first thing I did was read a lot on line. Second I took off all the see through panels to expose the 3 crts at the front of the TV. The crts had a plastic cover around the sides, I removed it also to expose all of the screws. I took a picture and got familiar with what screws were for what. Then I took off the back panel and took some pictures. I drew a diagram of the crts/boards and where the wires went.
The next day I started early. I unplugged the TV. Then turned the power to dissipate any remaining power. Not sure if this made a difference or not. The power light came on for a moment then dimmed. I had heard about the large red anode wire from the crt packing a punch with power stored in them. I didnít experience any problems like that. I first grabbed the right (blue- from the back) circuit board at the base of the crt. I gently wiggled down till it came off. It came off rather easy. I had to remove the two black wires (grounds) from high up by the lens on the crtís metal frame. Squeeze the clip and pull down. The blue had one extra ground attached to metal frame of the crt to a metal frame of the TV.
In any order (or at least I did) I removed the thick red anode wire. This is attached to the upper crt. Removing this was probably the trickiest. I wasnít sure how to. I found out that the red wire has a black casing/clip that slides into a white hollow tube about 1 Ĺ -2Ē high. I had to take a tiny screw driver and from the other side of the tube push in a small opening to release the black clip, at the same time pulling up. I did this for all 3 crts.
Next was a group of wires red, blue, brown, black connected to a white clip. They run from the mid section of the crt to a circuit board on the right wall. The clip snaps to the circuit board. Each crt has one clip that snaps to this board. I used needle nose pliers and just pulled straight out. You can read on the board which colors are for what connection.
The last group of wires yellow, green, blue, red, also start at the mid section of the crt and have a black clip. The clip goes to a board directly below the center crt. Green (the farthest), blue in the middle and red the closest. They just pull straight up and off.
You do the same for all crts. The center crt (green) has a bigger circuit board attached to the bottom. Both Red (left crt from back) and Green (center crt) each have one extra wire (two wires on a white clip). This is wrapped around a black plastic ring. Both clips snap into a small circuit board attached to the front wall. I pulled one clip off with needle nose pliers and unwound it from the plastic ring. This told me which crt it went to. I then wrote where that clip went. I pulled the other clip out.
Removing the CRT:
With a socket screw driver I removed the 4 outer screws holding the crt frame to the TV frame. Pull up gently so you don't bump any of the centering rings/sliders or whatever they are called. Plus some of the wires hanging below can get tangled. I rolled up the wires after I disconnected them then taped them together. This made it much easier to pull out and when cleaning the lens..etc.
The crt has some weight to it so grip firmly on the frame when lifting out. I laid a towel down by the kitchen sink. Find something to raise the end of the crt so it is level, with the drain plug facing up. You can use pliers or a wrench. A 14mm socket will fit the drain plug. Be gentle with this plug, itís plastic and doesnít need over tightening. It only turns counter clock-wise ľ turn to loosen. Remove plug. Thereís a white tiny O-ring. Donít loose that. I made sure it stayed on the end of the plug.
I used an ear cleaner (squeezy thing) and sucked out some of the coolant. I put a plastic container in the sink and lifted and turn the crt over to drain the rest of the fluid out. You might have to turn the crt from side to side to get the fluid to come out. It has an oil consistency to it. After all is out I set it back on the towel and removed the 4 torx screws with an E6 socket. Hang on to the lens housing as you remove the last screw. After removing the lens housing you see the lens and the big rubber washer. Slowly peel them off. Be supper careful with the lens.
I used soapy water to clean the rubber washer not alcohol. I first rinsed off the lens with water, then used the denatured alcohol (paint department Walmart - $4.50 a can) and the ear cleaner thing to clean the lens. I was wearing surgical gloves. I cleaned the lens of the slimy film build up. Do this a few times till all the build up is gone. Once clean, rinse with distilled water (buy same place you buy bottled water). Use microfiber towels to clean off dry. After the lens was clean I noticed there was still a build up along the rim. So I had to clean that off. It was quite stubborn. I didnít want to use anything abrasive. I dipped the microfiber rag into the alcohol and cleaned everything that way too.
I poured water into the lens compartment where the coolant was and with my gloves on I rubbed as much of the build off as I could. Drained. Then did it with the denatured alcohol. Get every spot and corner. Then rinse with distilled water a few times, make sure there arenít any floaties. Drain real good then soak up any water with your rags inside the chamber. Once the compartment is dry you can put the rubber washer and lens back on.
Using an old dinner plate to place the washer on, I put 100% RTV silicone on the washer. To be safe I put it on the entire side. Not to thick but covered all of the surface area. Then attached it to the lens housing. Press on it to get a good flat seal. Center it as best you can. Then I put silicone on the outer side, then attached the lens. Remember the bubble of the lens goes on the inside of the lens housing. Press firmly to get a good flat seal.
I bought the coolant at the link below for $7 a bottle and $9 in shipping. I bought 3 bottles and had 2/3 bottle left over.
The first time I filled the lens housing on the blue I had a lot of bubbles and noticed a leak. I couldnít stop it so I drained it and took off the lens and seal. Had to do the whole alcohol thing again. Resealed it and let it sit. I put it off to the side and kept pressing on it from time to time to keep it flat. I pulled the center green crt out and did the same.
After I got the second one sealed I screwed the lens cap on the blue. Donít tighten to tight. I then filled the blue crt with coolant again. This time with the lens cap screwed on (using the 4 torx screws). I was afraid to put the coolant in to fast as it comes out in a fine stream. You can poke a hole in the bottom of the bottle when itís tip upside down. You wonít have to squeeze it to hard itíll just flow out, but watch it so it doesnít overflow on everything. Fill it to the very top of the plug hole. Then put in the plug. Tighten ľ turn clockwise with socket if you can. It puts pressure on all sides and prevents breaking and stripping the plug. You donít need to tighten too much. Check for leaks as it sits.
After that I pulled the red crt, drained, cleaned, and sealed it. You probably can just drain the fluid and fill it with new as this one didnít have a build up. If you are NOT planning on taking the lens cap off the red then donít rinse out the chamber housing where the coolant is. You wonít be able to remove all of the alcohol and/or distilled water. I cleaned it all anyways. The fluids were all discolored. Blue worst, then green then red.
I then screwed on the lens cap to the green crt (using the 4 torx screws). Set it side. I re-installed the blue crt in the TV. Filled the green with coolant. Screwed the lens cap on the red crt. Re-installed the green crt. Then filled the red with coolant. After checking for leaks on all 3 crts, I re-installed the red.
Carefully plug in all wires and clips. I also put a little silicone back on the glob of black silicone I had to cut to get the circuit board off of the green crt.
I Plugged it in and turned on the TV. All seamed fine. Put the see through panels on the front of the TV and did the menu convergence. The image is bright and crisp. Like new.
The only complaint at this point was the writing in the lower left is out of alignment like on The Weather Channel. I can fix it a little but it starts to mess with writing above that. Other then that everything seems fine for now. Still checking for leaks.
I didnít include gloves in the S Tools used pic. I went through 3 pairs.
Also the funnel in the pic was used for when I drained the blue after I had cleaned and sealed and saw a leak. I poured the new coolant from the crt into a big container to be reused after I fixed the leak. But I found a lot of floaties in it. So I found another container used a funnel and put a paper towel in the funnel and filtered the coolant. It worked great. Slow, but clean. Any bubbles havenít been a problem yet. So you might not have to worry about them. Just put the coolant in slowly.
Also I took apart the expansion chamber on the blue. It was perfectly clean. So I didnít bother with the others. If the blue was clean the rest would be.
2 pics before:
2 after pics:
As for my dilemma regarding convergence here's a link posted prior to this one. The TV now looks better then the 2 after pics, after correcting the convergence.